When booking a stay in the Valley of ChamonixWe have only one hope: that the weather will be perfect to admire the glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif. But first, we need to find some good viewpoints. While the most famous ones are easily accessible by modern ski lifts, such as Brévent, Flégère, or Aiguille du Midi, in this article, I propose three hikes—not too difficult, but still requiring some effort over the course of a day—to contemplate the most beautiful glacial landscapes of the massif.

Let's begin our exploration:

  • from the climb to the Bellachat refuge
  • from the balcony of Mont Blanc
  • glacial landscapes around the Albert 1 refugeer

The climb to the Bellachat refuge (2152m)

7km round trip. Allow between 2 and 3 hours for the continuous climb.

Purists will start from the banks of the Arve to take advantage of the 1200 meters of elevation gain. But my advice is to start near the parking lot of the merlet, the animal park of Les Houches. You are already at an altitude of 1500 meters and the climb to the 2152 meters altitude of the Bellachat refuge will seem less long.

This hike takes place largely in the dense, cool forest overlooking the hamlets of Taconnaz and Les Bossons, which can be glimpsed at the bottom of the valley on the left bank of the Arve River. These same hamlets gave their name to the great glaciers that descend directly from the summit ice cap of Mont Blanc. Through the branches, you can see the whiteness of the ice and the contours of the crevasses opposite you. There was a time, not so long ago, when these glaciers reached almost to the outskirts of the villages. My childhood memories, from the 80s, depicted these glacial masses, which nearly touched the highway, as giant tongues cooling the valley floor. Today, with ongoing climate change and the retreat of the glaciers, their termini are several hundred meters higher.

How to get to the Bellachat refuge
The climb to Bellachat in front of Mont Blanc

We climb steeply above Merlet Park

But let's get back to the hike. The trail winds through the forest, initially following the Merlet ParkYou can sometimes spot a few animals wandering around, much to the amusement of children and their parents who have come to admire them up close. It's a kind of wildlife that's almost domesticated, but also a way to raise awareness of the presence of these mammals in the vast natural area you're walking through that needs protecting.

The trail climbs steadily in the shade before emerging from the upper edge of the forest at an altitude of approximately 2000m.

The landscape opens up. No more trees cover the ice domes of the main peaks of the Mont Blanc massifnor the sharp peaks that dominate Chamonix. Moreover, the mountain town is now fully visible and occupies the entire flat basin in the middle of the valley.

Arrival at the Bellachat refuge

One more effort. This one is more intense, but the scenery makes it pleasant. Your gaze turns towards Brévent to spot the path that will lead you to the Bellachat refugeOne last challenge: crossing the top of the Ravin des Vouillourds. There's a rocky section equipped with ropes and chains for support. But don't worry, this is a passage for hikers, not for climbing. Stay on the trail and exercise caution (especially if you have young children) because the ravine is quite steep and exposed on one side, but the path is very well marked. However, be very careful if you get caught in the rain. The ground becomes slippery very quickly.

Once this last step is completed, you arrive in an area covered with meadows and mountain flowers for the final few meters towards the Bellachat refugeIts inviting terrace allows you to relax your legs while enjoying a spectacular view.

The return journey follows the same route. The most adventurous will continue to the summit of Brévent.

The view from the Bellachat terrace
The terrace of the Bellachat refuge at 2152 meters above sea level

The balcony of Mont Blanc

For nearly 20 km, much of it between 2000 and 2300 meters in altitude, you will admire the entire Mont Blanc massif and its most famous peaks. Mont Blanc itself with the ice caps surrounding it – Mont Maudit, Dôme du Goûter – the Aiguilles de Chamonix, Dru, Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Tour…

A long but easy walk. Children who are good walkers can undertake it without difficulty.

You are leaving from ChamonixTake the first section of the Brévent ascent, stopping at Planpraz. Then follow the GRP Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc to La Flégère – another starting point if you want to shorten the route. From there, head towards the upper balcony via the very famous White Lake and the Lacs des Cheserys Before descending back towards Argentière, either directly or towards Trélechamps and Montroc train station, you can return by train to complete the loop back to Chamonix. This is best done in fine weather, allowing a full day and departing as soon as the Planpraz gondola opens.

The highlights of the walk: the absolutely unobstructed view of the glaciers and peaks of the Mont Blanc massif – undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Alps-, the encounter with ibex and sometimes chamois between Lac Blanc and Lacs des Chéserys, in the Aiguilles Rouges reserve, and the sensation of soaring above the valley which gradually darkens at the end of the day while the glaciers still sparkle.

The hike on the balcony overlooking Mont Blanc between Planpraz and La Flégère

The trail presents some difficulties. If the beginning, between Planpraz and the Flegère The first 5,5km is almost painless, so captivated are you by the scenery along this relatively flat trail. The next section becomes a bit more challenging. The climb to Lac Blanc (approximately 2350m) requires hikers to ascend 450 meters over 3,5 kilometers. The slope is therefore quite steep. A short section involves climbing ladders, and there may be a short wait, depending on the number of hikers.

Be careful not to go the wrong way at the start of the hike from La Flégère: do not take the Balcon Sud (GR Tour du Mont Blanc) which will take you directly to the Chalet de Chéserys without passing by the lakes higher up. Follow the GRP Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc signs towards Lac de la Flégère, Lac Blanc! It would be a shame to miss the highlight of the hike: White Lake.

Where is White Lake?
White Lake

White Lake, a marvel that is too crowded

This very popular lake (too popular, even!) is situated in a spectacular location, opposite the Mer de Glace glacier, whose dust-covered tongue can be seen unfortunately disappearing further and further between the mountains and the Grandes Jorasses. With the Aiguille Verte to the left and Mont Blanc to the right, you have a commanding view of the entire landscape. Don't miss it!

The rest of the route is mostly downhill, and even if the last few kilometers through the forest can still tire the legs, the memory of the newly discovered landscapes lingers and invigorates the spirit. Passing by the Lacs des Chéserys and encountering the ibex that roam the area is an unforgettable photographic opportunity.

Do you know what the word "Chésery" means? It's a shepherd's refuge where cheese is produced. This suggests that the place is located in the middle of pastures.

Your return to the Chamonix valley.

This is definitely the hike to do, either in one go or in two parts (Planpraz-Flégère and Flègère-Lac Blanc-Argentière) when you are staying in the Chamonix Valley.

Check train timetable to return to Chamonix from Argentière or Montroc.

What is there to see in the Chamonix valley?
The Chamonix valley in its entirety

The glacial landscapes around the Albert 1 refugee

Where can you see glaciers up close, relatively easily and without the crowds? The answer is simple: the Albert 1 refugeer.

This one is located at the very bottom of the Chamonix valley, overlooking the village of Le TourIt can be accessed via the lifts of the Col de Balme ski area, from the Tour parking lot (two kilometers from the Montroc train station). I advise you not to exhaust yourself by going directly up from the village, as the elevation gain is significant. The ascent via the Charamillon cable car (1854m) and even better the Autannes chairlift (2181m) prevents you from getting out of breath before you even start the most attractive part of the route.

Panoramic view of the Chamonix Valley and Mont Blanc

This trail begins near Lake Charamillon. Sometimes by the end of summer, there isn't much water left, but in early summer, it's a place where you can see animals drinking early in the morning before the heat of the day. The trail then follows the axis of the Valley of ChamonixMont Blanc towers over the town at over 3800m. The view from this part of the valley makes one reflect on the human condition: we are truly small in the face of Nature.

The trail bypasses the Bec de Picheu at an altitude of 2300-2400 meters and this time heads towards the Southeast. The Green Needle (4122m), to the right, dominates the entire landscape with its icy cap that seems suspended and menacing above the valley. Opposite us, numerous peaks, a blend of ice and rock, rise to over 3000 meters. Fortunately, the high mountain scenery surprises the hiker's senses, because this section is the longest and steepest. The trail runs alongside the moorish of the Tour glacier, which can be seen a little higher up seracs, but which at this level is nothing more than a pile of rocky debris. A rocky, harsh, and rugged world that prepares us for world of glaciersWe are beginning to see the Albert 1 refugeer When you reach the glacier in its active section, seracs several meters high seem ready to fall. Sometimes, you can hear the sound caused by the collapse of one of these tall ice towers.

How to get to the Albert 1er refuge
The path to the Albert 1er refuge

The world of glaciers near the Albert 1er refuge

We can see the up close crevicesThe icy, tormented surface of this perpetually moving glacial mass. The final meters to reach the 2702-meter summit of the Albert 1 refuge.er seem easy to walk through because your eyes are drawn to this cold and living presence that you will be walking alongside.

Leave the refuge on your left and continue climbing a little higher on the trails used by mountaineers heading towards the Aiguille du Tour (3540m) or its neighboring peaks until you reach the limit for a hiker without crampons and without ice climbing experience. This is where you will put down your pack to admire the Tour Glacier and its array of icy peaks, including the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3824m) and the Grande Fourche (3619m). You are at the dawn of the world. Alone, in contemplation before a landscape that has remained untouched.

Certainly, to discover the glacial world in the Chamonix Valley, by making the effort to approach it on foot and not by cable car, nothing beats the climb to the Albert 1 refugeer.

The return journey follows the same route as the outward journey, descending on foot via a drivable alpine path which you will take at the level of the upper station of the Charamillon cable car.

The Chamonix Valley is rich in magnificent walks and hikes. Some are easy, others more demanding, but all will delight hikers who appreciate beautiful mountain scenery.

What does a glacier look like up close?
See a glacier up close at the Albert 1er refuge

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