These 3 charming villages in the upper Val Pusteria with views of the Dolomites

At the easternmost point of Südtirol/Alto Adige, the Puster Valley The road rises gently towards the Austrian border before encountering the first great walls of the Dolomites. The valley is still wide, carpeted with meadows and dark forests, but the landscape is already changing. To the south, limestone peaks emerge above the spruce trees; their pale summits catch the morning light, turn pink at the end of the day, and etch one of the most recognizable silhouettes of the Alps against the sky. It is here, between approximately 1,200 and 1,300 meters above sea level, that three villages follow one another, offering three different ways to approach the Dolomites: Dobbiaco/Toblach, crossroads of valleys, lakes and historic routes; San Candido/Innichen, a small market town with an exceptional religious heritage; and Sesto/Sexten, mountain village nestled at the foot of a natural sundial formed by the peaks.

They are separated by only a few kilometers, linked by train, road, and a cycle path, yet each possesses an immediately perceptible identity. Dobbiaco/Toblach exudes open space: the eye sweeps towards the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal, the pastures, and the lake, while trains glide along the valley floor and cross-country skiers gather at the Nordic Arena. San Candido/Innichen, with its narrow streets, colorful facades, and Romanesque collegiate church, concentrates a historical density almost unexpected at this altitude. Sesto/Sexten, finally, already belongs fully to the Dolomites: the mountains draw closer, the valley becomes more intimate, and the Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal opens a spectacular route to the nature park. Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen.

Discovering these three villages is like experiencing a transition. It's the one that leads from the wide alpine valley to the high, mineral walls, from the agricultural world of South Tyrol to the high-altitude trails, from the baroque bell towers to the mountain huts nestled at the foot of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen. In summer, you can hike along the lakeshores, under larch trees, and through valleys where the scent of resin mingles with that of freshly cut meadows. In winter, the cold hits you as soon as you step off the train, the snow muffles all sounds, and cross-country ski trails connect the villages under a sky that is often a deep, intense blue.

The climate of the Upper Puster Valley/Hochpustertal: altitude, light and large temperature variations

A high alpine plateau subject to harsh winters

The Upper Val Pusteria/Hochpustertal is already well above 1,100 meters in altitude. Dobbiaco/Toblach lies at around 1,200 meters, San Candido/Innichen is at approximately 1,175 meters, and the center of Sesto/Sexten reaches roughly 1,310 meters. This altitude, combined with the valley's eastern and relatively continental location, explains why winters are colder than in many other Dolomite destinations.

Winter nights can be particularly harsh. In calm, clear weather, cold air descends from the slopes and collects in the valley bottoms, causing pronounced temperature inversions. In the morning, meadows, roofs, and branches are sometimes covered with a thick frost that sparkles as soon as the sun rises above the ridges. The dry cold stings the face, the snow crunches underfoot, and smoke from chimneys hangs above the houses before dissipating in the sunlight.

This consistently cool climate is ideal for Nordic activities. The Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen, and Sesto/Sexten region forms one of South Tyrol's premier cross-country skiing areas, with trails connecting the villages, traversing the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal valley, and, depending on the route, reaching the Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal valley or the Austrian border. The Nordic Arena in Dobbiaco regularly hosts international competitions, while the 3 Zinnen Dolomites alpine ski area currently offers 115 kilometers of trails spread across five interconnected mountains.

Bright summers, but rarely stifling

In summer, the altitude significantly moderates the heat. While July and August days can be hot, the air is generally more breathable than in the lower valleys of South Tyrol, and evenings cool down quickly. After sunset, a jacket is often necessary, even if the afternoon has been warm.

This temperature range gives the landscapes a particular sharpness. In the morning, the peaks are often perfectly silhouetted against the cool light; later, the forests take on deep hues and the meadows release the sweet scent of hay. Summer thunderstorms can develop rapidly in the mountains, especially in the afternoon, which encourages early departures for long hikes to the mountain huts or the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen.

Autumn is one of the most captivating seasons. The larches turn yellow, the undergrowth smells of damp earth, and the first snows sometimes dust the peaks long before reaching the valley floor. In spring, however, conditions are highly variable: lower trails may already be passable, while high mountain passes and high-altitude routes remain snow-covered.

Different microclimates between the three villages

Despite their proximity, the three villages do not experience the mountains in exactly the same way. Dobbiaco/Toblach lies in a vast basin, at the meeting point of the Val Pusteria/Pustertal and the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal. The horizon is more open there, the wind circulates more easily, and masses of cold air can linger in the meadows around the lake.

San Candido/Innichen, slightly lower and closer to the corridor leading to Austria, enjoys a somewhat more urban and sheltered atmosphere in its center. Sesto/Sexten, nestled in a side valley facing the Dolomites, is more directly influenced by the slopes and high peaks. Shadows fall earlier in some areas during winter, while the walls of the natural sundial (see below) capture the colors of the sunset for a long time.

Dobbiaco/Toblach, the crossroads of lakes, valleys and music

A strategic geography at the gateway to the Dolomites

Dobbiaco/Toblach occupies an exceptional geographical position. The village lies in the broad basin of the Upper Val Pusteria/Hochpustertal, at an altitude of approximately 1,200 meters, where the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal opens to the south. This valley connects the Val Pusteria to the area around Cortina d'Ampezzo and is one of the main access routes to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen, Lake Misurina, and the Eastern Dolomites.

The territory of dobbiaco The village is divided into two centers. Dobbiaco Vecchia/Alttoblach, slightly elevated on the hillside, retains the old village character around the parish church of Saint John the Baptist. Dobbiaco Nuova/Neutoblach developed lower down, near the train station, the cultural center, the Nordic Arena, and the road leading to the lake.

This separation is particularly striking when arriving by train. Upon leaving the station, the landscape appears vast: the tracks cross the basin, meadows stretch towards the forests, and mountains rise in the distance, close enough to assert their presence without yet completely enclosing the horizon. The Cima Nove/Neunerkofel, the Rocca dei Baranci/Haunoldgruppe, and the peaks of the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal form a backdrop that constantly shifts with the light.

Dobbiaco/Toblach is also close to a major watershed. In this area, the waters divide between the Adriatic basin, via the Rienza/Rienz river, and the Black Sea basin, via the Drava/Drau river. This geographical threshold reinforces the feeling of being in a place of passage between several Alpine worlds.

A story linked to roads, railways and alpine tourism

The modern development of Dobbiaco/Toblach is closely linked to its location on the Val Pusteria route and the arrival of the railway in the 19th century. The railway line facilitated the arrival of the first travelers, mountaineers, and wealthy clientele from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Large hotels were built near the station, in the Dobbiaco Nuova/Neutoblach area, gradually transforming the village into a resort town.

Le Grand HotelThe vast building located near the train station still bears witness to this period. Today it houses the cultural center. Euregio Gustav Mahler and the Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen Nature Park Visitor Centre. The centre presents the geology of the Dolomites, their formation, their natural environments, and the challenges of protecting this UNESCO World Heritage site. Entry to the visitor centre is free.

Dobbiaco/Toblach also remains linked to the memory of the First World War. The Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal led to a particularly fiercely contested front line. Monte Piana, located further south, preserves trenches, positions, and military roads, now transformed into an open-air museum. This historical dimension is reflected in many hiking trails and serves as a reminder that the now-silent landscapes were once traversed by battles.

Gustav Mahler and the Composition Hut

Between 1908 and 1910, the composer Gustav Mahler He spent his summers near Dobbiaco/Toblach. He worked in a small cabin built in a secluded spot, amidst meadows and trees, so that he could compose in peace and quiet. There, he notably worked on parts of The song of the earth, of the Ninth Symphony and the Tenth, which remained unfinished.

The site is reached via an easy walk from the Dobbiaco Nuova/Neutoblach area. The path winds through peaceful landscapes where one can hear the rustling of leaves, the clanging of cowbells, and, in the distance, the passing of trains. This atmosphere helps one understand what Mahler was seeking here: not absolute silence, but a succession of natural sounds, air currents, and rhythms that seem to expand the space.

The Gustav Mahler Music Weeks They perpetuate this link between Dobbiaco and the composer today. The official Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen region even presents Mahler's music, the lake and the Nordic Arena as three major elements of the village's current identity.

Lake Dobbiaco/Toblacher See, a mirror at the threshold of the Val di Landro

About three kilometers south of the village, the Lake Dobbiaco/Toblacher See It occupies a natural depression at the entrance to the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal. It is located at an altitude of nearly 1,260 meters and receives the waters of the Rienza/Rienz.

The lake isn't huge, but its surroundings give it a remarkable presence. Reedbeds line some of the banks, forests descend to the water's edge, and mountains gradually close off the valley to the south. In calm weather, the trees and peaks are reflected on the surface; when a breeze picks up, the water becomes dark and metallic, rippling with small waves.

An easy path allows you to walk around the perimeter. Allow approximately one to one and a half hours, depending on stops. Information panels describe the natural habitats, birds, and wetlands. The walk is suitable for families and is particularly beautiful early in the morning, when mist still hangs over the water, or in the late afternoon, when the sun dips behind the trees.

In winter, the lake transforms into an almost monochrome landscape. Snow blankets the banks, frozen reeds emerge from the ice, and the silence is broken only by the footsteps of walkers or the distant passage of cross-country skiers. However, the ice conditions must always be respected: the frozen appearance of the surface does not guarantee that it is passable.

The Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal, from Lake Dobbiaco to the Tre Cime

The road and cycle path continue south of the lake into the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal. This long valley forms one of the most beautiful landscape corridors in the Eastern Dolomites.

After Lake Dobbiaco/Toblacher See, you reach Lake Landro/Dürrensee, known for its green waters and its open view of the Cristallo mountain range. The region's official website links these two lakes to long walks and bike excursions around Dobbiaco.

A little further on, a viewpoint offers a glimpse of the north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen. The view is distant but spectacular: the three rocky towers appear between the slopes, as if placed at the end of an immense mineral perspective.

The Val di Landro is a very pleasant place to cycle. The old Dolomite railway line has been converted into a cycle route to Cortina d'Ampezzo. The gradient is generally moderate, but the distance and altitude still require a good level of fitness if you want to complete the round trip without electric assistance.

The balconies of Dobbiaco/Toblach: Santa Maria/Aufkirchen, Monte Rota/Ratsberg and San Silvestro/Wahlen

To discover another side of Dobbiaco/Toblach, you must leave the valley floor and climb its northern slope, where meadows, farms, and forest edges form veritable balconies overlooking the Upper Val Pusteria/Hochpustertal. From the parish church of Dobbiaco Vecchia/Alttoblach, a beautiful loop first ascends towards Santa Maria/Aufkirchen, a small hamlet nestled around its sanctuary, then reaches Monte Rota/Ratsberg, at just over 1,600 meters above sea level. From there, the view encompasses Dobbiaco, Lake Dobbiaco/Toblacher See, Lake Landro/Dürrensee, and the entire Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal as far as the peaks that close off the valley. The route then descends via Fienili/Stadlern et San Silvestro/Wahlen, another group of farms and houses scattered across the meadows, before returning to the village. This loop represents approximately 8,9 kilometers, 441 meters of elevation gain and near four hours' walkwithout any particular technical difficulty but with a steady climb through the forest. It allows you to gradually transition from religious heritage to agricultural landscapes, then to a a very open viewpoint overlooking the DolomitesIn winter, these same sunny slopes remain popular for hiking and snowshoeing: the Monte Rota/Ratsberg area offers a particularly clear view of the snow-covered valley, while a route climbs from San Silvestro/Wahlen towards the Lachwiesenhütte, amidst white meadows and silent woods.

Walks and hikes in the immediate vicinity of Dobbiaco

The walk around the lake is the easiest route, but Dobbiaco/Toblach offers many other possibilities without requiring a major mountain hike. You can connect Dobbiaco Vecchia/Alttoblach to the Grand Hotel area, continue towards Gustav Mahler's hut, or follow the farm tracks overlooking the basin.

For longer hikes, the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal valley provides access to Monte Piana, the area around Lake Landro/Dürrensee, and several routes to mountain huts. Hikers should be mindful of distances and sunlight, however, as the valleys may appear easy while the starting points are already at altitudes of over 1,200 meters.

Dobbiaco is also the main departure point for buses to the Rifugio Auronzo, at the foot of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen, during the summer season. From there, the classic loop around the Tre Cime represents approximately 10 kilometers, with a moderate elevation gain but very high traffic in the high season.

Dobbiaco/Toblach, capital of cross-country skiing

Winter reveals one of Dobbiaco's main sporting identities. Nordic Arena It is a major center for international cross-country skiing. The trails extend across the basin, connecting to San Candido/Innichen and Sesto/Sexten, or heading up towards the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal. An official link connects the Dobbiaco stadium to the Monte Baranci/Haunold sector in San Candido, and then to the networks leading to Sesto or Sillian in Austria.

The routes are suitable for both experienced skiers and recreational skiers, but some sections feature more demanding ascents and descents than a simple valley run. The landscapes are constantly changing: vast meadows around Dobbiaco, forested sections, views of the Dolomites, and long snow-covered corridors in the Val di Landro.

For downhill skiing, Dobbiaco isn't directly at the foot of the vast interconnected ski area, but the train station offers access to the Ski Pustertal Express towards Versciaco/Vierschach, the gateway to Monte Elmo/Helm, or towards Plan de Corones/Kronplatz in the other direction. The village is therefore an ideal base for those wishing to combine cross-country skiing, excursions, and access to several alpine ski areas.

San Candido/Innichen, the small Romanesque town at the foot of Monte Baranci

A historic village at an altitude of 1,175 meters

San Candido/Innichen It has a very different character from Dobbiaco. The center is more compact, more urban, and organized around pedestrian streets lined with colorful houses, shops, hotels, cafes, and religious buildings. At 1,175 meters above sea level, the small town remains surrounded by mountains, but it gives less the impression of a scattered village and more of an old Alpine market town that has retained its commercial function.

The silhouette of the Rocca dei Baranci/Haunold It dominates the south. Its pale, jagged peaks rise above the forests with impressive verticality. In the morning, their faces remain in a cold light for a long time; in the evening, they sometimes take on orange hues that contrast with the dark roofs of the center.

La Drava/Drau It originates in the surrounding area and then continues its course towards Austria, Slovenia, Croatia and the Danube. San Candido/Innichen thus belongs to a hydrographic basin oriented towards Central Europe, which reflects its history and its long-standing ties with the Bavarian and Tyrolean world.

Monastic origins dating back to the 8th century

History San Candido is exceptionally old for an alpine locality of this altitude. In 769, the Bavarian Duke Tassilo III founded a Benedictine monastery to promote the Christianization of the Slavic populations further east. This foundation made San Candido a major religious and cultural center of the valley.

The monastery later evolved into a collegiate church, around which the town developed. The right to hold a market gradually strengthened its economic role. Its location on the road connecting the Tyrol trade with Carinthia was facilitated, even though wars, fires and political transformations regularly marked its history.

This historical depth is still visible when walking through the center. The streets are not only pleasant or picturesque: they are organized around a religious complex that tells the story of more than twelve centuries of human and spiritual presence in the upper valley.

The collegiate church, a Romanesque masterpiece of the Eastern Alps

La Collegiate Church of San Candido/Stiftskirche Innichen is the main building in the village. Rebuilt from the 12th century onwards after a fire, it is considered one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in the Alpine region. The official tourist website presents it as one of the great Romanesque sacred monuments of the Alps.Three Peaks)

From the outside, the building is striking for the sobriety and power of its proportions. The massive bell tower, thick walls, and light-colored stone give the whole an almost fortified presence. Inside, the light is more subdued. The vaults, the crypt, and the large Romanesque crucifix create a dense atmosphere, far removed from the lightness of the Baroque churches found elsewhere in South Tyrol.

Nearby is the parish church of Saint-Michelremodeled in the Baroque style. The contrast between the two buildings allows one to read several centuries of artistic history in just a few dozen meters.

The center also preserves chapels and more discreet religious buildings. The Chapel of Saint Sylvester, the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, and the remains of the former monastic complex enrich a walk that deserves to be taken slowly, taking the time to enter the churches and observe the details of the facades.

The streets of San Candido: colours, cafes and alpine culture

After the solemnity of the collegiate church service, the town center regains a lively atmosphere. The houses are painted in pastel shades, the signs alternate between Italian and German, and the terraces fill up during the sunny hours. The clinking of cups, the rumble of bicycles on the cobblestones, and conversations in the province's two official languages ​​can be heard.

This vitality doesn't transform San Candido into a mere tourist resort. The town remains a service center for the residents of the Upper Val Pusteria. Shops, schools, cultural events, and the proximity of the train station maintain a vibrant daily life that continues even outside the holiday season.

Local specialties blend Tyrolean traditions with Italian cuisine: canederli, goulash, polenta, alpine cheeses, strudel, and poppy seed pastries appear on menus. The aroma of coffee often mingles with that of burning wood and bakeries, especially in winter when the outside air is dry and icy.

Monte Baranci/Haunold, a family-friendly mountain just above the village

Le Monte Baranci/Haunold constitutes the mountain closest to San Candido. lifts start almost directly from the village and lead to a plateau located at around 1,500 meters altitude.

In summer, the area is particularly well-suited to families. Easy walks lead to mountain huts and meadows at the foot of the Rocca dei Baranci/Haunoldgruppe peaks. The Funbob, touted as the longest summer toboggan run in South Tyrol, descends from an altitude of approximately 1,500 meters and can reach speeds of up to 40 km/h, with the speed controlled by the rider.

For a more leisurely walk, it's possible to take the chairlift up and then descend to the Bagni di San Candido/Innichner Wildbad, a former thermal bath complex, now partially ruined, located in the forest. An official winter hike between the Monte Baranci upper station and San Candido via the old baths is approximately 5,5 kilometers long, with a descent of about 310 meters.

The San Salvatore chapel and the old baths

About an hour's walk from San Candido is the San Salvatore chapel, accessible only on foot. The current building was consecrated at the end of the 16th century, but the site is believed to have housed an earlier sanctuary and may have been frequented since pre-Christian times.

The trail winds through woods where the ground is covered with pine needles, moss, and roots. In damp weather, the scent of earth and conifers becomes particularly strong. The site offers an easy excursion, ideal for those who wish to combine walking, heritage, and a forest atmosphere without undertaking a high-altitude hike.

The Bagni di San Candido/Innichner Wildbad They, in turn, evoke the tradition of Alpine spa resorts. The mineral springs once attracted a clientele seeking treatment and relaxation. The buildings, now silent, lend the place a romantic, almost melancholic air, enhanced by the surrounding forests and rocky cliffs.

The Drava/Drau cycle path towards Austria

San Candido is the starting point for one of the most popular cycling excursions in the Alps: the Drava/Drau trail to Lienz, in AustriaThe route generally follows a downward slope and allows you to reach the Austrian city by following the river, meadows and border villages.

The route is suitable for a wide range of people, although the distance requires a minimum level of fitness. Many cyclists cycle there and return by train. Booking a space for your bicycle may be necessary during peak periods, and transport regulations should be checked before setting off.

To the west, another route connects San Candido to Dobbiaco, then continues into the Val di Landro towards Cortina. The village thus forms a true cycling hub between Italy and Austria.

Monte Baranci in winter: skiing, sledding and evenings under the spotlights

The Monte Baranci sector forms a nearby ski area It is particularly popular with families. It counts 23 kilometers of slopes and five ski liftsas well as four mountain huts. An illuminated slope allows evening skiing on certain dates.

The domain is connected to the rest of 3 Zinnen Dolomites by transport and regional links, but it retains a distinct, more compact atmosphere and is immediately accessible from the centre.

Sledding is also a major attraction. The family-friendly run is approximately 2,1 kilometers long during the day, while a nighttime run of about three kilometers is offered on certain evenings. For the 2025-2026 season, night skiing and sledding were advertised twice a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Days and times vary from season to season and should therefore be checked before your stay.

Sesto/Sexten, at the foot of the Dolomites sundial

A side valley that penetrates into the heart of the mountain

From San Candido/Innichen, the road leaves the Val Pusteria/Pustertal and heads southeast into the Valle di Sesto/SextentalThe terrain gradually narrows, forests cover the slopes and the peaks become closer, more vertical, almost theatrical.

The center of Sesto/Sexten is located at an altitude of around 1,310 meters. Higher and further south extends Moso/Moos, at the entrance to the Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal and at the foot of the Croda Rossa/Rotwand and Passo Monte Croce Comelico/Kreuzbergpass sectors.

Sesto lacks the urban density of San Candido and the openness of Dobbiaco. The village is scattered across a valley dotted with farms, houses, churches, and hotels, with the mountains ever-present above the rooftops. Bells ring against the hillsides, shadows fall quickly in winter, and the cliffs seem to change shape as you travel further into the valley.

The official tourist website describes Sesto as one of the cradles of mountaineering in the Dolomites, with a tradition of more than 150 years closely linked to mountain sports.

The sundial of Sesto/Sextner Sonnenuhr

The village's most distinctive landscape feature is its natural sundialSeveral peaks bear names corresponding to the hours: Cima Nove/Neuner, Cima Dieci/Zehner, Cima Undici/Elfer, Cima Dodici/Zwölfer and Cima Uno/Einser. From certain points in the valley, the position of the sun above these mountains used to estimate the time.

This sundial is not a perfectly regular object nor an instrument in the modern sense, but a popular interpretation of the landscape. It reveals the intimate relationship between the inhabitants and the mountains: the latter were not only admired, they served as landmarks to organize the days, work and travel.

On a clear day, the silhouette is particularly spectacular at the end of the day. The peaks first take on a golden hue, then pink and dark red, while the valley floor is already in shadow. The official website presents the Neuner, Zehner, Elfer, Zwölfer and Einser succession as one of the most remarkable silhouettes in the Dolomites.Three Peaks)

A village marked by mountaineering and the First World War

The immediate proximity of the Dolomites has made Sesto a important center of mountaineeringLocal guides very early on accompanied travelers to the summits, rocky towers and mountain huts. The Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen, the Cima Tre Scarperi/Dreischusterspitze, the Monte Paterno/Paternkofel and the Croda dei Toni/Zwölferkofel are some of the major destinations in this territory.

The valley was also badly affected during the First World WarThe border between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire crossed the nearby mountains. Villages were evacuated or damaged, and the fighting left galleries, trenches, and fortifications still visible on several high-altitude routes.

Le Sesto war cemeteryThe monuments and historical trails serve as reminders of this period. In the current silence of the valleys, it is sometimes difficult to imagine the sound of explosions, the military transports, and the extreme living conditions on the mountain ridges. Yet, the traces remain etched in the rock.

The church and cemetery of Sesto

The parish church of Saints Peter and Paul overlooks part of the village. Destroyed during the First World War and subsequently rebuilt, it bears witness to Sesto's turbulent history. It contains the graves of Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers.

The surrounding cemetery is well worth a visit. Its crosses, sculptures, and monuments are integrated into a landscape that opens onto the mountains. The works of local artist Rudolf Stolz, as well as the museum dedicated to him, are reminders of the valley's artistic vitality.

This association between art, memory and landscape gives the center of Sixth a depth that is not always perceived at first glance. The village is primarily known for its mountains, but these have shaped a very particular culture, sensibility, and iconography.

Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal, one of the most beautiful valleys in the Dolomites

From Moso/Moos, a gently sloping road leads to the Val Fiscalina/FischleintalThis glacial valley extends for several kilometers between the forests, meadows and the great walls of the Sesto/Sextner Dolomites.

The valley floor is relatively flat in its first section. From the Fischleinboden parking area, a road of approximately 4,5 kilometers leads to the Rifugio Fondo Valle/Talschlusshütte. The walk is accessible, although the round trip distance ultimately becomes a considerable hike.

The experience is profoundly sensory. The stream accompanies the path, cowbells echo in the meadows, and the air retains a damp coolness beneath the trees. As you advance, the cliffs draw closer, and the valley seems to close in on itself, forming a cirque of rocky towers.

In autumn, the larches turn golden and the shadows further accentuate the landscape. In winter, the scenery is almost silent. An official winter hike between Sesto and the Rifugio Fondo Valle is approximately 5,8 kilometers one way, with 215 meters of ascent and about 1 hour and 40 minutes of walking; a shorter loop or out-and-back hike can be adapted to the conditions.

From Val Fiscalina to Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen

La the most famous hike from Val Fiscalina leads to Rifugio Locatelli/Drei-Zinnen-Hütte, at 2,405 meters, facing the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen.

The route begins gently up to the Rifugio Fondo Valle/Talschlusshütte, then the slope steepens considerably. The path enters the rocky landscapes of the nature park, crosses scree slopes and gradually reaches the plateau where the north faces of the Tre Cime come into view.

Depending on the starting point and the route, it takes approximately 11 to 14 kilometers, 4 to 6 hours of walking et 900 to 1,000 meters of positive elevation gainThe route is demanding and should not be confused with a simple walk along the valley floor.

Another approach starts from Val Campo di Dentro/Innerfeldtal. The official route to Rifugio Locatelli is approximately 12 kilometers, 4 hours 30 minutes of walking, with a high point at 2,405 meters and a starting point around 1,507 meters.

These hikes should only be undertaken in stable weather, with good footwear and plenty of water. Snow may linger early in the season, and thunderstorms make the higher areas particularly exposed.

Monte Elmo/Helm, Croda Rossa/Rotwand and Domain 3 Zinnen Dolomites

Sesto/Sexten is located in the heart of 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski areaThe main mountains linked include Monte Elmo/Helm, Stiergarten, Croda Rossa/Rotwand, Passo Monte Croce/Kreuzbergpass and the Monte Baranci/Haunold sector in San Candido.

The domain announces 115 kilometers of trails across five interconnected mountains, with a mix of blue, red and black runs.

Monte Elmo/Helm is accessible from Sesto and from Versciaco/Vierschach. Its open and relatively sunny slopes offer long descents and great panoramas over the Val Pusteria and the Dolomites.

Croda Rossa/Rotwand has a more rugged atmosphere, dominated by cliffs. The area is known for its slopes, winter trails and its five-kilometer toboggan run, which descends approximately 600 meters to the lower station.

The Giro delle Cime allows you to traverse the five mountains of the resort in one day, combining runs and connecting trails. It is intended for skiers who are independent enough to follow the route and manage their time, as the closing of the lifts means that the loop should not be started too late.

Beyond Sesto/Sexten, the opening towards the Comelico

Sesto/Sexten is not just a valley floor facing the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen: it also constitutes a natural gateway to the Comelico, on the Venetian side of the Dolomites. The road continues beyond Moso/Moos to the Passo Monte Croce Comelico/KreuzbergpassAt 1,636 meters above sea level, the pass connects the Valle di Sesto/Sextental to Padola and the Val Comelico. The landscape changes subtly as you cross the pass: the forests remain deep, but the architecture, language, and village layout already hint at the province of Belluno. This gateway can be explored on foot via the cross-border route linking Padola to the pass, a hike of 11,6 kilometers, about 4:55 am, with 976 meters of ascent and a high point at 1 933 metersOther trails follow the old smuggling routes between the Klammbach and Nemes alpine pastures and the Monte Croce Pass. In winter, the connection also becomes a sporting one: the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski area extends into the Val Comelico ski sector, part of the Giro delle Cime, a loop of approximately 35 kilometers which crosses the mountains between Versciaco/Vierschach and the Belluno side. This continuity reminds us that Sesto is less at the end of a territory than at the contact of two Dolomite worlds, one South Tyrolean, the other Cadorini and Comelian.

Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and winter hiking

Sesto also boasts an extensive cross-country skiing network. The trails traverse the valley floor, pass close to the villages, and lead to San Candido and Dobbiaco. The short, almost flat loop at Waldheim, just two kilometers long, is ideal for beginners; it offers an unobstructed view of the sundial and can be illuminated on certain evenings.

For hikers, the Val Fiscalina is the iconic route. Other paths lead to the alpine pastures of Monte Elmo, the Passo Monte Croce, or the Moso forests. Higher-altitude routes require careful checking of snow conditions and avalanche risk.

How to reach Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen and Sesto/Sexten?

Arriving by train from Bolzano, Innsbruck, Venice or Verona

Dobbiaco/Toblach and San Candido/Innichen are located on the Val Pusteria/Pustertal railway line. This line connects to the Brenner line at Fortezza/Franzensfeste.

From Bolzano/Bozen, the journey usually takes between 2 hours and 2 hours 30 minutes, with a connection at Fortezza/Franzensfeste. From Bressanone/Brixen, the journey takes approximately 1 p.m. to 30 p.m.From Innsbruck, journeys also pass through Fortezza and generally require between 2:30 and 3:30, depending on the connections. This same rail link passes through Brunico/Bruneck, pretty little town and historical and cultural capital of the Pustertal valley.

From Venice, the simplest rail route isn't always direct. You can travel via Verona and the Brenner Pass, which often takes more than five hours, or combine train and bus journeys via Cortina d'Ampezzo, depending on the season. From Verona, the train journey to San Candido or Dobbiaco usually takes around four hours, with a change at Fortezza.

Tickets for Italian national trains can be purchased from Trenitalia, on the website, the app, or at ticket machines. Regional journeys in South Tyrol can be planned and purchased using the app südtirolmobil/altoadigemobilitàwhich also provides up-to-date bus schedules. The official website compiles all rail and bus schedules for the network.

Some accommodations provide their guests with the Südtirol Guest PassThis includes a large portion of regional public transport. However, specific tourist services, such as certain buses to the Tre Cime or Lake Braies, may be excluded or require reservations. Service 444 to Rifugio Auronzo is explicitly listed among the routes with specific conditions.

From Dobbiaco to San Candido and Sesto by bus

The main line for traveling between the three villages is the bus 446It connects Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen, Sesto/Sexten and the Monte Croce Comelico/Kreuzbergpass. Depending on the route and time of year, it also serves the main stops related to ski lifts and access to the valleys.

The journey between Dobbiaco and San Candido usually takes around classTo get from San Candido to Sesto, you should allow approximately 20 to 25 minutes, and about 40 to 50 minutes from Dobbiaco, depending on the stops. The Passo Monte Croce can be reached in about twenty additional minutes from Sesto.

The timetables change between the winter season, the shoulder season, and the summer. For summer 2026, the network notably announces line 446 between Passo Monte Croce, Sesto, San Candido, and Dobbiaco from June 14 to December 12.

Join the Val Fiscalina and the Val Campo di Dentro

To access the Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal without a car, you need to reach Sesto or the Monte Elmo cable car area, then take the local shuttle bus (depending on the season). The network recommends line 446 to reach Sesto from Dobbiaco or San Candido, with a connecting bus to the valley.

The Val Campo di Dentro/Innerfeldtal is served seasonally by the bus 449which connects the valley junction to the main inland access points. The timetables are coordinated with some arrivals on line 446, but connections should be checked on the day of travel.

Go to Tre Cime, Misurina or Cortina

From Dobbiaco, the bus 444 In summer, it serves the Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen and the Rifugio Auronzo. For 2026, the service is scheduled from May 31st to October 11th. Reservations are generally required during peak season, and this route may not be covered by standard transport passes.

Le bus 445 It connects Dobbiaco to Misurina and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Serving the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal valley, it offers an attractive option for hikers wishing to traverse the area without returning to their starting point by car. For summer and autumn 2026, the line is included in the network timetable from June 14th to December 12th.

Come by car

From Bolzano/Bozen, follow the A22 motorway to the Bressanone–Val Pusteria/Brixen–Pustertal exit, then the SS49 towards Brunico/Bruneck and San Candido/Innichen. The journey to Dobbiaco takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours from Bolzano, depending on traffic, then about ten more minutes to San Candido.

From Innsbruck, the route passes through the Brenner Pass and Fortezza. It generally takes around 2 p.m. to 15 p.m. as far as Dobbiaco.

From Venice, road access is via the A27, Belluno, Cortina d'Ampezzo and Val di Landro. The journey takes approximately 2 p.m. to 45 p.m.excluding traffic jams. From Cortina, Dobbiaco can be reached in approximately 35 to 45 minutes.

Sesto/Sexten is located approximately 15 kilometers from Dobbiaco and 8 kilometers from San Candido. The road is easy, but winter conditions may require appropriate equipment. Parking lots in Val Fiscalina, at the ski lifts, and at the main natural sites fill up quickly during peak season; the bus is then a more convenient alternative.

Three villages, three ways to experience the Dolomites

Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen and Sesto/Sexten form a coherent geographical unit, but the traveler does not retain the same image of each.

Dobbiaco is a breath of fresh air. One thinks of the wide basin crossed by trains and cross-country ski trails, of the still lake under the trees, of the Val di Landro which leads the eye towards the Tre Cime and of the small cabin where Gustav Mahler sought the calm necessary for composition.

San Candido is where mountains and history meet. The Romanesque collegiate church dominates the village center, colorful facades enliven the streets, and the peaks of the Rocca dei Baranci remind you at every turn that the Dolomites are never far away. In the morning, you can visit the crypt; in the afternoon, climb Monte Baranci; and in the evening, return to the cafes and lights of the town center.

Sesto is an immersive experience. The valley narrows, the peaks become time markers, and the Val Fiscalina leads hikers towards mountain huts and high cliffs. In winter, the trails of Monte Elmo and Croda Rossa traverse a stark, mineral landscape; in summer, the paths leave the meadows and gradually enter the world of rock.

These three villages offer a unique way to discover the Dolomites, rather than limiting them to a single panorama. They first appear in the distance, above the lakes and forests of Dobbiaco. Then, they frame the streets and monuments of San Candido. Finally, in Sesto, they fill the entire horizon.

Perhaps this is what makes the Upper Puster Valley so captivating. The mountains don't reveal themselves all at once. They approach gradually, through the sound of a stream, the shadow of a forest, the color of a rock face, or the chill that descends into the valley at dusk. Then, one morning, from a meadow in Sesto or the shores of Lake Dobbiaco, you look up and realize that you have already entered the heart of the Dolomites.

Credit Photos

San Candido church: Luca Mazzio (Luca83), CC BY-SA 2.5 IT https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/it/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons// https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/San_Candido-parrocchiale_di_San_Michele_%283%29.JPG

Prato alla Drava: Llorenzi, CC BY-SA 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/, via Wikimedia Commons// https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Chiesapratodrava.JPG

San Candido center: Manuel Velazquez, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Plaza_de_Innichen_-_panoramio.jpg

Dobbiaco plain Cima nove: Llorenzi, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Sella_di_Dobbiaco_con_Cima_Nove_01.jpg

Dobbiaco Mahler: NH53, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Youth_Hostel_in_Toblach_Dobbiaco.jpg

Dobbiaco: Luca Lorenzi (user:Llorenzi) (Uploaded first to Italian Wikipedia), CC BY-SA 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/, via Wikimedia Commons// https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f4/Dobbiaco.JPG

Dobbiaco church: Wolfgang Sauber, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ae/Toblach_-Pfarrkirche_1-_Fassade.jpg

Moso: Steinsplitter, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Sexten_Moos.JPG

Sesto: 2015 Michael 2015, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/05/Sexten_2021-10-28.jpg

You might also be interested in these articles: