Bormio is an excellent starting point for exploring the many magnificent sites of the Upper Valtellina nearby. Even as you stroll through the historic center, the mountains beckon. You gaze at them from a terrace, from a panoramic path, from the hot springs perched above the valley, wondering what wonder lies hidden in each cleft of the landscape, each a gateway to valleys that lead to other worlds. In Bormio, the mountains invite adventure and the discovery of every hidden corner.
This is where the second part of the journey begins. After discovering the spa town, its history as an Alpine crossroads, and its atmosphere that is both urban and mountainous, comes the desire to experience excursions. Without changing everything, without repacking. Simply by taking a road, a path, a mountain pass. In just a few kilometers, the landscapes change dramatically: hanging glaciers, high plateaus, pastoral valleys, legendary roads, perched villages, and tranquil lakes. The Upper Valtellina is a valley crossing which offers many discovery options.
Explore the valleys around BormioIt's about understanding why the city has always been strategic. The roads climb towards the high glacial mountains in the direction of the Stelvio and Gavia passes. But it also provides access to gentler landscapes, lakes, and other valleys like that of Livigno and its unique world.
This diversity is Bormio's greatest asset. It allows changing universes without changing basesto alternate between the comfort of the city and the intensity of the altitude, human history and raw geography. The valleys surrounding Bormio are the natural extension of the experience, those that give the stay its depth and its most beautiful memories.

The Stelvio National Park is accessible right from the village of Bormio.
The first remarkable site on this list is a natural wonder. Bormio is both the edge of the Stelvio National Park, but also one of its beating hearts. The town is literally nestled within one of the largest protected areas in Europe, a high mountain territory of more than 130 000 hectares, Established in 1935At a time when Italy was becoming aware of the fragility of its vast Alpine landscapes, the park was conceived as a bulwark against overexploitation of forests and pastures, but also as a sanctuary for already threatened Alpine wildlife. Even today, this purpose is felt as soon as you leave the last houses of Bormio: the noise fades, the space expands, and the mountains impose a different rhythm.
The park unfolds in layers, gradually ascending from the town. Around Bormio, the larch and spruce forests form a protective belt, crossed by old mule tracks and scenic trails accessible to all. Decauville trailThe former military railway line from the First World War is one of the most popular walks: wide and gently sloping, it offers views of the Valdidentro peaks and superb vistas of the valley and the hanging alpine pastures. It provides access to the Park entrance at the level of the Fraele Towers.
The Stelvio, a preserved natural world
Higher up, the woods open onto bright alpine pasturespunctuated by stone huts, clear streams, and still-used pastures. Routes providing access to the Park's wild areas, such as the ascent towards the Fraele Towers, in the Valdidentro, or the paths around Santa Caterina ValfurvaThey offer a perfect balance between accessibility and the feeling of high mountains. Here, even a short walk gives the feeling of entering a wider, quieter world.
Then come the mineral landscapes: moraines, scree slopes, glacial tongueswhere vegetation is sparse. The park still protects several iconic glaciers, notably those of the Topsail, ovens and Cevedale, veritable open-air climate archives. The Valley of the OvensAccessible from Santa Caterina, it's one of the most popular hiking destinations: a relatively easy route leads to the Branca refuge, facing one of Italy's largest glacial complexes. The contrast between the accessible walk and the monumental landscape is striking. The route up to the Pizzini refuge is wilder. Walks at the foot of the Zebrù, The path to Rifugio Campo crosses immense forests, following a stream. It has a touch of the Rockies about it…
The park's wildlife is one of its greatest assets. deer and roe deer are common in forest edges at dawn and dusk. Higher up, the chamois move with disconcerting ease on the steep slopes, while the marmots They whistle at the first rays of sunlight. In the sky, theRoyal Eagle plane regularly, and the bearded vulture, successfully reintroduced, is now one of the park's silent symbols. Walking here means accepting to look up, to stop, to observe - sometimes for a long time - before seeing.
Stelvio National Park, a crossroads of valleys inhabited for a very long time
The Stelvio Pass is also a crossroads of valleys, and Bormio is its natural convergence point. From the town, several directions are open to the traveler. valfurva The trail then ascends towards Santa Caterina and the Gavia pass, penetrating deep into the glacial heart of the park. valdidentro It opens up towards the Cancano lakes and the Torri di Fraele, offering more open, almost Nordic landscapes. valdisottoThe more discreet route retains a pastoral and authentic character, ideal for peaceful walks between hamlets and meadows. Finally, the legendary road of Stelvio Pass, with its 48 hairpin bends on the Bormio side, leads towards the Engadine, the Val Müstair and South Tyrol, crossing one of the most spectacular road passages in Europe.
There is no shortage of viewpoints. The natural viewpoints along the Stelvio Pass, the grassy terraces around Santa Caterina, and the plateaus of the Cancano Lakes offer vast panoramas, encompassing glaciers, peaks, and inhabited valleys all at once. Each access point is a transition: you leave one world to discover another, without ever breaking the flow of the mountains.
In the Stelvio National ParkThe walk is never insignificant. Even on the easiest paths, one feels that rare sensation of moving through a protected territory, inhabited by silence, geological memory, and wildlife. Bormio, in this respect, is a privileged entry point: a threshold between the town and the mountains, between thermal warmth and glacial harshness, between human history and a mountain that, here more than anywhere else, commands respect and wonder.
The portion of the park accessible from Bormio isn't the largest, but there are numerous easy walks around the village: scenic trails, alpine paths, and old mule tracks. Very quickly, however, the terrain reminds you that you're in the high mountains. The park is a sanctuary for alpine wildlife: deer, chamois, marmots, and golden eagles. In summer, the mountain huts become meeting points for hikers, shepherds, and local families. There, people share polenta, alpine cheese, and simple conversation. The park is a territory that is lived in, managed, respected, and shared.
Further south, near Sondalo, access to the heart of the Stelvio National Park is made possible via the Valle di Rezzalo, a real gem to discover. Wide valley bathed in sunshine, with a relatively modest slope, it allows magnificent walks to discover the stone and wood houses typical of the region, the church of Saint Bernard, a picturesque mountain chapel, 350 years old, with its fountain of very pure water and above all the calm and silent landscape of a car-free valley.
To reach this valley, you'll need to leave your car at the entrance to the park, in the Fontanaccia parking lot at an altitude of 1500 meters. From there, you'll hike or mountain bike along a well-marked mule track for the few kilometers that separate you from its upper end, the San Bernardo plain, at almost 1900 meters. The more adventurous can then cross the Passo dell'Alpe, encountering the World War I fortifications before descending towards Valfurva or branching off towards the Passo Gavia.

The Stelvio Pass: a work of engineering, power, and vertigo.
The Stelvio National Park has the unique feature of being crossed by three major road passes: the Stelvio, the Umbrail and the Gavia, all three of which are closed in winter.
The Stelvio Pass road is a spectacular road: it is an achievement born from a will political, military and symbolic, and of geostrategic necessity in the heart of Alpine Europe. Perched at 2 meters above sea levelIt is among the highest paved road passes in Europe, alongside the Iseran, the Gavia or the Bonette, but it stands out for a rare singularity: its monumental route, its imperial history and its role as a crossroads between three alpine worlds.
At the beginning of the 19th century, Lombardy belonged to the Lombard-Venetian kingdomVienna, now part of the Austrian Empire, needed to quickly and reliably connect Milan to its Tyrolean territories without relying on routes through rival states, including Switzerland. The Valtellina and Stelvio passes were essential, but only mule tracks existed, impassable for artillery and military convoys.
En 1820Emperor Francis I entrusted the engineer Carlo Donegani a titanic mission: to chart a permanent drivable road through one of the most hostile areas of the Alps. In just five years—an absolute feat for the time—the Stelvio Pass road was completed. It includes 40 switchbacks on the Bormio sideRoute 48, on the Prato allo Stelvio side, crosses unstable slopes, avalanche zones, and hanging glaciers. Thousands of workers labor there, often risking their lives. From the outset, teams were tasked with keeping the road open even in winter, a first in the high mountains.
This road is not designed for pleasure: it is a state road, an instrument of territorial control. But very quickly, it transcends its military function. It becomes a symbolic ridgeline, a link between the Lombardie, South Tyrol (Südtirol) and, by a branch, the Val Mustair Switzerland via the Umbrail Pass.
The Umbrail: the discreet passage to Switzerland
A few hundred meters from the summit of the Stelvio, a narrower road branches off to the north: this is the Umbrail Pass (Pass dal Fuorn)or a 2 501 metersLong remaining unpaved and more rugged, it connects the Stelvio to the Val Mustair, eastern gateway of the Swiss National ParkWhere the Stelvio impresses with its monumentality, the Umbrail seduces with its more secret, almost confidential character.
This triptych — Lombardy, South Tyrol, Engadine — makes the Stelvio a major alpine nodeIt's much more than just a border pass. In just a few kilometers, you experience a change of language, architecture, and Alpine culture. Few European roads offer such a rich geographical and human experience.
A cycling epic etched in asphalt
While the Stelvio Pass originated from military strategy, it entered into legend through... cyclingAs early as 1953, the Tour of Italy He enshrined the pass as the ultimate arbiter. Fausto Coppi forged part of his legend there, and since then, the Stelvio has been regularly designated Coppi peak, the highest point of the Giro d'Italia.
For cyclists, the climb from Prad, in the South Tyrolhas become a ritual: 48 numbered turnsA hypnotic rhythm, a steady yet relentless incline, and that unique sensation of climbing a mineral staircase to the sky. From Bormio, the ascent is more varied, wilder, alternating between forests, alpine pastures, and then lunar landscapes. In both cases, the Stelvio is no small feat. It's a total experience, physical and mental, which places the pass among the absolute references of world cycling, on the same level as the Galibier or the Tourmalet.
The Stelvio: a mountain pass, but also a summer ski resort
At the summit, the Stelvio Pass is not just a place to pass through. In summer, it becomes a temporary living spacewith its shelters, its terraces, its cosmopolitan bustle of motorcyclists, hikers, and cyclists from all over the world. But above all, it is home to one of the rare summer ski resorts in Europe.
On the Stelvio glacierSkiing is generally practiced late May to early November, depending on snow conditions and road openings. The area, located between 2 and 750 metersIt offers around twenty kilometers of trails, primarily geared towards sports training. It is a major center for competitive skiingfrequented by national teams and international clubs, but also accessible to experienced skiers eager to experience the rare opportunity to ski in the middle of summer, under a bright sun, facing the Ortles-Cevedale glaciers.
This practice, although increasingly constrained by climate change, remains emblematic of the uniqueness of the Stelvio: a place where one can, in the same day, ride a bike, walk on glacial moraines and put on skis.
The Stelvio in the Alpine hierarchy
With 2 757 metersThe Stelvio Pass is among the highest fully paved mountain passes in Europe. It is often cited as the second highest road pass in the Alps, according to the criteria used, and remains one of the most spectacular due to its continuous layout, its width and its landscape legibility.
But beyond the rankings, the Stelvio is above all a col-synthesis : a synthesis of alpine engineering, European history, modern mobility and sporting myth. Few roads tell so much in so few kilometers.
From Bormio, taking the Stelvio Pass road is a gradual ascent through history and geography. With each hairpin bend, the valley recedes, the world becomes simpler, and the mountain reasserts its dominance. When you reach the windswept summit, surrounded by peaks, you understand that the Stelvio is not a border: it is a the highlight of the trip, a moment when we touch upon what the Alps have that is most radical, most beautiful, and most enduring.

La Valfurva: land of glaciers
From BormioThe Valfurva valley opens up like an invitation to the high mountains. The road gradually leaves the valley floor, following the lively course of the Frodolfo torrentand enters a landscape that subtly changes scale. The houses become more spaced out, the slopes steeper, and the air itself seems to gain in clarity. The mountain becomes an all-encompassing presence.
Valfurva is one of the most direct access points to heart of the Stelvio National ParkIt penetrates deep into the mountain range of theOrtles-Cevedale, one of the most important glacial systems in the Italian Alps. From the very first kilometers, the eye is drawn to the powerful silhouettes of the Mount Sobretta (3296 m) which close the horizon. As you ascend the valley, the great names of the glacial arc gradually appear: the Mount Cevedale (3769 m), la Punta San Matteo (3678 m) and, in a majestic backdrop, the Monte Ortles (3905 m), highest point in South Tyrol and mythical summit of alpine mountaineering.
Historically, the Valfurva has always been a valley of passage and survival. Long before tourism, it was traversed by shepherds, muleteers, and soldiers. During the First World WarThe front line of the "White War" crossed the valley's heights: trenches, military roads, cable cars, and makeshift railways were installed even on the glaciers. Today, some trails still follow these old routes, and walking in the Valfurva is sometimes like walking on a history buried beneath the alpine pastures.
Santa Caterina Valfurva: a high altitude village facing the glaciers
In the heart of the valley, at 1738 meters above sea level, Santa Caterina Valfurva It appears like a natural balcony overlooking the high mountains. The compact and bright village is dominated by the gentle, wooded slopes of the mountain amphitheater that surrounds it. Unlike Bormio, Santa Caterina is not a spa town or a historical site: it is a mountain village facing the altitude, deeply connected to its natural environment.
In summer, Santa Caterina is a prime starting point for easy walks and more challenging hikes. The paths climb gently towards the alpine pastures of PlagheraThey follow the Frodolfo stream or climb towards the first mountain huts. Families particularly appreciate the wide, gently sloping paths at the bottom of the valley, where they walk between flowery meadows, open forests, and glacial streams. Very quickly, however, the steepness reminds you that you are already in the high mountains: the peaks close in, glaciers appear around every bend, and the light becomes harsher.
The Valle dei Forni: the gateway to the glacial world
Beyond Santa Caterina, a side road leads to one of the most impressive sites in Stelvio National Park: the Valley of the OvensThis hanging valley provides access to one of the largest glacial systems in Italy, dominated by the glaciers of the ovens, Cevedale and San MatteoAccess is relatively easy.
The route to the Rifugio Branca It's one of the most popular, and for good reason. The ascent is gradual, well-marked, and offers constant views of the glaciers. Reaching the refuge reveals a landscape almost Himalayan in its scale, yet still accessible to a wide range of hikers. Here, the mountain demands silence and a slower pace: one observes and measures the retreat of the glaciers—a living geography lesson. And an awakening to the ongoing climate change.
Skiing in Santa Caterina: an authentic alpine resort
In winter, the Valfurva changes its appearance, and Santa Caterina Valfurva becomes one of the most popular ski resorts in Upper Valtellina. The resort is situated between 1738 m and 2880 m, on both sides of the Mount Sobrettaand offers approximately 35 km of slopesserved by about ten ski lifts.
The skiing here is very different from that of Bormio. Less spectacular in the media, it is more immersive, closer to the mountain. The slopes are often wide, well-exposed, and offer remarkable snow quality thanks to the altitude and orientation. Some descents, particularly on the slope of Plaghera, offer a rare sensation of skiing in the heart of nature, far from major infrastructure. The resort has also hosted international competitions, notably in Women's Alpine Skiing, proof of the technical complexity of some of the routes.
Santa Caterina is also appreciated for its atmosphere: family-friendly, calm, and without excessive hustle and bustle. After skiing, you can rediscover that mountain village atmosphere, where the mountains are ever-present.
A valley to slow down and observe
Valfurva is finally a territory of wildlife and silence. We are in the heart of Stelvio National Park. deer frequent the low forests, the chamois are visible on the grassy slopes in spring, and the marmots They punctuate the summer with their whistles. bearded vulture, successfully reintroduced, sometimes flies over the valley, reminding us that the ecological balance of the park is very real.
What is striking about Valfurva is this impression of constant progressionEach kilometer, each turn takes you a little further from the urban world and closer to an essential, almost archaic mountain. People come here to feel the continuity of a valley that leads, without interruption, from the inhabited village to the glaciers, from human history to pure geology.

Passo Gavia: mineral threshold between Valtellina and Val Camonica
Beyond Santa Caterina Valfurva, the road doesn't end. In summer, it climbs, narrows, and heads towards one of the most powerful and demanding passes in the Italian Alps. Gavia Pass, perched at 2621 meters above sea level current is a very rough high-altitude passage between two very different alpine worlds in the heart of Lombard Alps.
An extreme pass
The climb from Santa Caterina, winding its way up the mountain, is initially rapid, then gradual and steady. The last hamlets quickly disappear, giving way to an increasingly rocky landscape. The larches become more scattered, then give way to bare alpine pastures, before bare rock dominates. The road sometimes follows steep slopes, crosses glacial streams, and offers breathtaking views of the Cevedale massif and the hanging glaciers that descend towards Valfurva. Even in summer, the air is crisp, and one understands why this pass is often closed for a large part of the year.
Historically, the Gavia was for a long time a difficult passage, used by shepherds, smugglers, and soldiers. During the First World WarThe area was integrated into the high-altitude front: Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers occupied these ridges under extreme conditions. The traces are discreet but present—old military roads, observation platforms—and reinforce the feeling of isolation and gravity of the place.
The summit of the pass, austere and almost bare, is marked by a few buildings, including a refuge, and above all by a rare feeling: that of being in the heart of a high mountain, untouched by artificeHere, there are no large tourist infrastructures, no staging. The landscape speaks for itself. The high-altitude lakes, often still partially frozen in early summer, reflect the dark walls, while the silence is broken only by the wind.
The descent towards Val Camonica: a world apart
Switch from the Passo Gavia towards the Camonica Valley is an experience in itself. The southern slope of the pass is steeper, even wilder. The road plunges into a different world, almost more Mediterranean at times, where the rock changes color, the light becomes warmer, and the vegetation gradually transforms.
The descent leads towards Ponte di Legno, then towards the vast Val Camonica, known as much for its alpine landscapes as for its exceptional heritage. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the valley is home to thousands of prehistoric rock engravings, a unique testimony to a very ancient human presence. This contrast is striking: after the glaciers and moraines of the Gavia, we find a valley deeply inhabited, cultivated, marked by millennia of civilization.
For the traveler based in Bormio or Upper Valtellina, the Passo Gavia is a natural extension of the journey and a way to connect very different alpine worlds in a single day. We start from the thermal gentleness of Bormio, we cross the alpine pastures and glaciers of Valfurva, we cross a rugged and silent pass, then we descend towards a wider valley, older in its human occupation.
Cyclists, hikers, and contemplative motorists all find a memorable experience on the Gavia. More than just a legendary mountain pass, it is also famous for its passages of the Tour of ItalyThe Passo Gavia is a A lesson in alpine geography, experienced firsthand.where you can physically feel the transition between the mountain's levels, between climates, between cultures.
Throughout the journey around Bormio, the Gavia Pass acts as a symbolic high point: after it, you no longer look at the map in the same way. You understand that the Upper Valtellina is not a dead end, but a high-altitude crossroadsopen to other valleys, other stories, other horizons.

Valdidentro: not just a valley to pass through
In the immediate vicinity of Bormio, the Valdidentro opens up as a transitional valley, both exit door to other alpine worlds and breathing space gentler and more open than the glacial valleys of the Stelvio, it follows the upper course of the Adda before it turns towards the Valtellina, and has always been a strategic transport axisbut also a rural territory deeply structured by water, alpine pastures and long seasons.
Geographically, Valdidentro is a wide, relatively sunny valley, bordered to the south by the first foothills of the massif of the Cima PiazziIt doesn't immediately give the impression of extreme high mountains, but that's precisely what it is. progressiveness which is part of its charm. The altitude is gained without abruptness, and the landscape unfolds in stages.
Villages steeped in Alpine history
The municipality of Valdidentro comprises several villages and hamlets — Isolaccia, Premadio, Pedenosso, Semogo — whose organization tells the story of a valley that has been inhabited for a long time. These villages did not arise from tourism, but from the need to manage the land, pastures, and passageways.
Isolaccia, now the administrative center and vibrant heart of the valley, retains a typically Alpine structure: stone houses, wooden balconies, simple churches, and communal fountains. Premadio, further downstream, recalls the valley's former role as control and transit point, particularly at the time when exchanges between Valtellina, Engadine and Tyrol required human and logistical relays.
Historically, Valdidentro has long been a territory shifting border, depending sometimes on the Grisons sphere, sometimes on the Lombard or Austrian orbit. This position explains the density of mule trackssmall religious buildings and defensive structures, now discreet, but still legible in the landscape.
The Cancano lakes and the Torri di Fraele: water as landscape
Heading up the valley, the road leads to one of the most emblematic sites of the Upper Valtellina: the Cancano LakesThese two vast artificial reservoirs, created in the 20th century for hydroelectric production, have integrated surprisingly harmoniously into the landscape.
It is accessed via a spectacular road, punctuated by a powerful symbol: the Fraele TowersTwo medieval towers, standing at an altitude of 1930 meters, act as a stone threshold at the entrance to the high plateau, known as the Passo delle Scale. Built in the 14th century and later reinforced, they protected the territory of Bormio from potential invasions from the Grisons.
Around the lakes, there are numerous and accessible walks: wide tracks, gently sloping paths, ideal routes for families, cyclists, or contemplative walkers. The view stretches far, over landscapes almost Nordic, made up of open plateaus, pastures, and changing reflections on the water. The high mountains here are soothing.
Walks and hikes: an accessible mountain
La valdidentro is particularly appreciated for its accessible walkswithout sacrificing the feeling of altitude. The trails along the Adda, the alpine paths around Isolaccia or the routes leading to the lakes offer a rare diversity: leisurely walks, wildlife observation, picnics with views of the peaks.
As you climb, you gradually gain views of the Ortles-Cevedale massif, while remaining in an open, never oppressive environment. It's an ideal valley for those who want entering the mountain without roughness, to understand the landscapes before confronting them more directly.
Skiing in Valdidentro: intimacy and gentleness
In winter, Valdidentro offers a more discreet skiing experience than Bormio, but one that is highly appreciated for its family characterThe ski area is developing approximately 30 kilometers of tracksdistributed between 1,340 meters and 2,550 meters altitude, on the slopes of Monte Cima Piazzi (3,439 m), one of the great peaks that dominate the Bormio landscape. Skiing here takes place in a more forested than glacial environment, which is particularly pleasant in bad weather or during windy periods.
The tracks are mostly blue and redWide, even, well-exposed slopes, with some steeper runs on the upper section. The skiing is fluid, without any abrupt changes in gradient, making it ideal terrain for learn to ski, progress smoothly or ski as a familyThe sectors are served by around fifteen ski lifts (chairlifts and ski lifts), discreetly integrated into the terrain.
This "local" skiing contrasts with the big sporty descents of Bormio and perfectly complements the region's offering: here, you ski without pressure, in a local atmosphere, with mountain huts that perpetuate a simple and generous cuisine.

Livigno: Italy's Siberia
At the end of Valdidentro, the road finally crossing a true alpine thresholdTo reach Livigno, you have to go through two major mountain passes, open and cleared of snow all year round, as an exception in the Alps at this altitude. First the Passo di Foscagnoor a 2 291 meters, wide and bright, where you can already feel the air changing, drier, colder, more continental. Then the Passo d'Eiraor a 2 208 meters, which marks the definitive entry into the basin of Livigno.
Livigno, in a very isolated valley
Between the two, the eye is drawn to a singular place: Trepalle, a hamlet stretched across the slopes, perched at more than 2 meters above sea level, often presented as one of the highest year-round inhabited villages in Europe. French readers, don't be offended, Saint-Véran, at 2040 meters in the Queyras, remains the highest inhabited commune in Europe; but not the highest inhabited place: Trepalle, Juf, and even Tignes are at higher altitudes.Let's return to Trepalle: here, the houses face winter head-on, the roads wind between the chalets, and daily life has been organized for centuries around the constraints of altitude. Trepalle is a living testament to human adaptation to high altitude.
This succession of mountain passes explains the unique history of Livigno. Long isolatedCut off from the rest of Lombardy by snow and the mountains, the valley developed a distinct identity, initially focused on self-sufficiency, then on a gradual opening made possible by the ongoing maintenance of its roads. Even today, crossing the Foscagno and Eira passes remains an experience: one leaves the "usual" Valtellina mountains to enter a wider, brighter, almost Nordic space. When the Livigno Valley finally opens up, wide and high, one immediately understands why it has forged a unique reputation in the Alps, that of a high-altitude territory, long isolated, which has become a world unto itself.
In summer, the Forcola di Livigno, accessible by the road that climbs from Tirano towards the Bernina Pass and the Engadine, is an alternative that is at least as interesting from a landscape point of view.
His nickname "Italian Siberia" is not an exaggeration: the winters there are long, cold, and until the 20th century, the village remained cut off from the world for several months a year.
Livigno, from an isolated village to a major tourist center
This geographical constraint has shaped a unique identity. Livigno was for a long time an autonomous community, living off livestock farming, tolerated smuggling, and a subsistence economy. Its status as free zoneThe exemption, granted as early as the 19th century, was specifically designed to compensate for this extreme isolation. Even today, it explains the absence of VAT, which attracts many visitors.
But reducing Livigno to a mere high-altitude shopping center would be a mistake. The village has transformed into complete alpine resort, without totally denying its character. Stretching along a wide and sunny valley, Livigno does not develop vertically but horizontally, retaining a certain landscape legibility.
Its vast and modern ski area extends over more than 115 km of slopesSpread across two opposite slopes, guaranteeing excellent snow cover and a wide variety of exposures. In summer, Livigno becomes a hotspot for mountain biking, hiking and high-altitude sports training.
Livigno thus embodies another facet of the Alps. It is a territory that has managed to transform its isolation into an asset, capitalizing on its altitude and open spaces. For the traveler coming from Bormio and the Valdidentro, arriving in Livigno is a stark change of scenery: one leaves the historic, pastoral valley to enter a laboratory of contemporary alpine tourism, still shaped by the extreme geography in which it was born.

Valdisotto, the one we wrongly forget
Between Sondalo and Bormio, The valdisotto is often crossed without stopping. And yet, this unassuming valley plays a vital role in the geography and identity of the Upper Valtellina. It stretches gently like a transition territory between the vast inhabited plain of Valtellina and the first serious slopes of the Stelvio National Park. A mountain that doesn't seek spectacular effects but allows itself to be tamed step by step.
Valdisotto is not a narrow valley, but a a succession of plateaus, sunny hillsides and perched hamlets, turned towards the light. The villages of Piatta, Cepina, Oga or Le Prese They retain a very legible rural structure: stone houses, old barns, wooden balconies, small votive chapels placed along the roadsides. This architecture tells the story of a valley long focused on mountain agriculture, livestock farming and transhumance, closely linked to Bormio, but without ever fully merging into its role as an urban center.
The geographical location of Valdisotto makes it a natural belvedereNumerous easy trails allow you to quickly gain altitude and take in at a glance the Bormio basin, the Adda valley, and the broad outlines of the surrounding mountain ranges. Walks around The GA et FlatFor example, they offer gentle routes, ideal for family walks, with open views of Monte Vallecetta, Cima Piazzi and, further on, the peaks of the Stelvio National Park. Just an hour's walk is enough to experience a sense of space and fresh air.
The valley slopes are traversed by ancient mule tracksThese paths, once essential for connecting the hamlets and reaching Bormio or Sondalo without going through the valley floor, are now marked and maintained and are among the most beautiful walking routes in the region: gentle slopes, dry stone walls, ancient fountains, passages through the forest and then sudden openings onto the landscape.
Valdisotto is also a privileged access point to wilder walks, particularly towards the lakes of Campaccio and Profa, renowned as some of the most beautiful in the Valtellina. In summer, you'll encounter herds of livestock, still-used summer chalets, and the pastoral life that gives the landscape its cohesion. In autumn, the larches take on spectacular golden hues, and the valley becomes one of the most beautiful areas for effortlessly observing the foliage.
A cycle path, also open to pedestrians, allows you to reach Bormio from Sondalo by crossing the entire Valdisotto.
In winter, Valdisotto retains a peaceful atmosphere, far from the hustle and bustle of the resorts. The routes of snowshoeing and cross-country skiing The valleys around Oga and Cepina offer a gentle approach to the mountains, often with striking views of snow-covered Bormio and the slopes of the Stelvio. It's an ideal valley for those seeking an inhabited mountain environment, where beauty is revealed gradually without necessarily offering breathtaking landscapes.

Gastronomy of Upper Valtellina: a very typical local cuisine.
In Upper Valtellina, the cuisine reassures, grounds, and keeps you warmIt is a direct extension of the landscape, the altitude and the long seasons, a cuisine of patience and repetition, shaped by winters where one relied on what had been prepared in advance.
This gastronomy is based on an intimate relationship with long time That of refining, drying, and slow maturation. Cool cellars, carved into the rock or built beneath houses, were for a long time veritable food vaults. Alpine cheeses, salted meats, preserved butters, dried dark breads: everything was designed to last through the snowy months without interruption. Even today, these practices are not mere folklore; they still structure the daily table.
Iconic dishes never stand alone: they are part of a coherent whole. A plate of pizzoccheriFor example, it is not just a hearty dish, but a structural break during the day. It marks the return from the mountain, the end of an effort, the moment when we truly sit down. Melted cheese, warm butter, winter vegetables speak a simple language: that of recovery, comfort, and silent sharing around the table.
Alongside these “central” dishes, the Upper Valtellina cultivates an art of few but justA thin, fragrant slice of bresaola, accompanied by bread and a glass of local wine, is often enough for a meal. Crispy, piping hot sciatt are less a treat than a ritual: they are eaten quickly, before they cool, often standing up, often with laughter. They embody this straightforward, no-nonsense cuisine.
Polenta, ever-present, acts as a backdrop. It accompanies game, mushrooms, and melted cheeses, and its role changes with the seasons. In autumn, it absorbs earthy flavors; in winter, it becomes a source of energy. Nothing is merely decorative: everything is functional, but never dull.
Getting to Bormio and the Upper Valtellina: trains, buses and shuttles from Milan
Join Bormio and the Upper Valtellina from Milan is simpler than you might think, even without a car.
By train to Tirano: a gentle ascent towards the Alps
If you choose the train, the most logical route starts at the Milan Central StationRegular regional trains take you to Tirano in about 2h30 to 3h, crossing Lombardy from south to north. The landscape gradually changes: the plain disappears, the hills appear, and the Alps can already be seen in the distance.
Tirano is also the starting point of the famous Bernina Express towards theEngadine Switzerland. Buses to Bormio are immediately accessible outside the train station: connections are conveniently located for travelers. The bus journey to Bormio takes approximately 1 to 1 hours 30/XNUMX, with line 070 Bus Perego
Getting around Bormio without a car: local buses, shuttles and useful connections
Although Bormio is often considered an ideal base for exploring the Upper Valtellina, you don't need a car to visit its neighboring valleys or reach the key points of interest in the region. Around the town, a public bus network operated mainly by the local company Automobilistica Perego provides regular connections to the main villages, resorts and natural sites — a practical, economical solution that is perfectly integrated into mountain life.
Intercity buses: the main routes
Since the Bormio bus stationseveral lines of Perego Bus serve the surrounding valleys:
- Line A073 – Bormio ⇄ Santa Caterina Valfurva This is the most common route to the Valfurva valley and the Santa Caterina ski resort. Buses depart several times a day and the journey takes about twenty minutes to the main stops such as San Nicolò or the Santa Caterina resort.
- Line A071 – Bormio ⇄ Valfurva Madonna dei Monti This variant also serves the hamlets and intermediate stops of the Valfurva, which facilitates access to the trails or residential areas.
- Line A074 / A075 – Bormio ⇄ Valdisotto (Oga, Piatta, Cepina, Aquilone) (Lines that connect Bormio to several hamlets in the Valdisotto, perfect for walks, gentle hikes or access to car-free scenic areas.)
- Line A072 – Bormio ⇄ Valdidentro – Livigno This line connects Bormio to Valdidentro and Livigno (1 hour 30 minutes for the entire journey). Full timetables and stops are available on the Perego Bus website.
En winterIn addition to the regular lines, a ski bus service free — accessible in particular to holders of Bormio ski pass — connects Bormio's central accommodations and stops to nearby ski areas, including Santa Caterina, without the need for a car or taxi.Practical advice Before setting off to explore the valleys, check the updated schedules and stops on busperego.com or directly to the information boards at the Bormio bus station, as frequencies vary depending on the season and day of the week.
Photo credits
Bormio: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fb/La_Conca_di_Bormio.jpg / Maurizio Moro5153, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Stelvio: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Stelvio_Pass_Bolzano_side_2.jpg /kallerna, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Passo dello Stelvio: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/43/2015_Passo_dello_Stelvio_-_Stilfser_Joch_%287%29.jpg / Steffs88, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Valfurva: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9c/23030_Valfurva%2C_Province_of_Sondrio%2C_Italy_-_panoramio_%284%29.jpg / Vanderlei Bissiato, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Valdidentro Cancano: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a3/Autunno_2005_065.jpg / Ghisolabella, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Sondalo Alta Valtellina: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/db/Sondalo%2C_Valtellina_Italy.jpg / Franco Folini, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Alta Valtellina: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Alta_Valtellina.jpg /Cristina.Paveri, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Livigno: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c6/Panoramic_Livigno.jpg /Marcin Sulikowski, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Passo Gavia: Walter Micheletti, CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons /https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Passo_Gavia_-_panoramio.jpg
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