The Borromean Islands: Discover the jewels of Lake Maggiore

The boat slowly leaves the pier of StresaBehind you, the Belle Époque facades of the grand hotels gently recede as Lake Maggiore gradually regains its silence. Ahead of the bow, three silhouettes seem to float between the sky and the deep blue waters. First, a monumental palace appears, set upon a terraced garden that seems to rise directly from the lake. A little further on, an island almost disappears beneath lush vegetation, where only a few honey-colored facades emerge. Finally, a third reveals a bell tower, a few houses huddled together, and a small harbor where fishing boats still bob gently.

These three islands form the Borromean Islands, undoubtedly the most famous site on Lake Maggiore and one of the most remarkable landscapes in Italy Don't miss it for the world! during a visit to the Great Lakes.

Many travellers visit them in a single day.

They admire the gardens, photograph the white peacocks, wander through the palace halls, then take the boat back to Stresa.

Yet, Borromean Islands deserve much more than just a simple excursion.

They tell the story of nearly six centuries of Italian history. They evoke the rise of a great Lombard family that became one of the most powerful in Europe. They bear witness to the genius of gardeners capable of acclimatizing species from Japan or the Himalayas at the foot of the Alps. They also tell the story of the fishermen who continue to inhabit a small island where time seems to have stood still.

Understanding the Borromean Islands means understanding why a few rocky islets have become one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Europe.

Before pushing open the doors, we must therefore begin with those who gave them their name.

Who are the Borromeos? The story of a family who transformed a lake into a work of art.

A meteoric rise in the heart of Lombardy

Long before they became the owners of the islands, the Borromeo They are first and foremost a family of merchants based around Milan.

From the 14th century onwards, their banking and commercial activities allowed them to accumulate considerable wealth. Political alliances with the great Lombard families, and later their close ties with the powerful Dukes of Milan, further accelerated their rise. A few generations were enough to make the Borromeo family one of the most influential aristocratic families on the Italian peninsula.

Their history However, it is not limited to power or wealth.

The Borromeos also became great patrons of the arts. They financed artists, architects, religious figures, and intellectuals. Several members of the family held major diplomatic positions, while Saint Charles Borromeo, archbishop of Milan in the 16th century, remains today one of the great spiritual figures of the Counter-Reformation.

It was at this time that their destinies definitively intersected with those of lake maggiore.

During the 15th century, the family gradually acquired several territories on the banks of the Verbano River, as well as the three main islands located in the Gulf of Stresa. At that time, these islands were of no particular significance. A few houses, cultivated land, fishermen, and shepherds occupied these modest rocky islets.

For many, they would have been nothing more than simple rural properties. The Borromeos, however, saw immense potential. They immediately understood that the exceptional setting of the lake could become the stage for an unparalleled achievement.

How to transform three islets into one of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe

When Vitaliano VI Borromeo decided, in the mid-17th century, to transform Beautiful islandHis project seems almost unrealistic.

The island is tiny. It offers little building space. Its terrain is uneven. Yet, the architects envision a completely unprecedented design. The palace will not simply be built on the island: the entire island will become the palace.

For decades, hundreds of workers transported granite blocks, marble, fertile soil, mature trees, and materials by boat from all over Italy. The project involved sculptors, gardeners, hydraulic engineers, and architects. Engineers built immense retaining walls to create ten superimposed terraces capable of supporting several thousand tons of topsoil.

Gradually, the ancient rock disappears, and in its place emerges a baroque composition where architecture and landscape become inseparable. Visitors are often unaware that most of the terraces they stroll on are entirely artificial. Every staircase, every pool, every row of statues, and every view of the lake serves a precise purpose.

Art historians today consider Beautiful island as one of the most remarkable examples of Italian Baroque garden, on par with certain Roman or Tuscan creations.

Perhaps the most surprising thing is that this work has never been fixed.

For nearly four centuries, the descendants of the Borromeo family have maintained the gardens, restored the palaces, and enriched the collections. The islands remain their property to this day, which explains the extraordinary state of preservation of the entire estate.

Visiting the Borromean Islands is therefore not like discovering a museum.

It's about entering a family history that continues to be written.

Isola Bella, the palace that seems to rise from the waters of the lake

An arrival that remains one of the most beautiful sights on Lake Maggiore

As the boat approachesBeautiful islandthe proportions become increasingly striking.

From Stresa, the island looked almost delicate. Seen up close, it reveals its full ambition.

The palace occupies almost its entire length, while the gardens rise in a spectacular pyramid of greenery overlooking the lake. White statues seem to watch over approaching boats. Behind them, the Piedmont mountains majestically close the horizon.

The impression is astonishing.

It is no longer really possible to distinguish where architecture ends and landscape begins.

The architects had envisioned the island as a huge baroque shipThe palace represents the prow. The gardens represent the successive decks that gradually rise towards the stern. Even today, when Isola Bella is viewed from the sea, this comparison seems obvious.

From the moment they set foot on the island, another surprise awaits the visitor.

Even before reaching the palace, a small street lined with old houses is home to cafes, artisan shops, and family-run businesses. This lively atmosphere contrasts with the monumental scale of the gardens. It serves as a reminder that Isola Bella was never solely a palace, but also a place where gardeners, servants, artisans, and fishermen lived for a long time.

Then the main facade finally appears.

Large and perfectly symmetrical, it immediately announces the splendor of the interior salons.

However, it is often the most unexpected pieces that leave a lasting impression on visitors.

The famous caves The palace walls are undoubtedly the most spectacular example. Clad in pebbles, shells, tufa, and mineral mosaics, they were designed to offer coolness and wonder during the summer heat. Light filters in discreetly, creating an almost surreal atmosphere where the walls seem to belong more to the marine world than to an aristocratic palace.

Continuing the tour, the grand salons reveal Flemish tapestries, painted ceilings, crystal chandeliers, precious furniture and paintings accumulated over the centuries.

The history of Europe naturally finds its place there.

En 1797, Napoleon Bonaparte et Josephine de Beauharnais They stayed on Isola Bella during the Italian campaign. The rooms they occupied can still be visited today and remind us how Lake Maggiore was already a prestigious place frequented by the great figures of its time.

But while the palace is impressive, it is the gardens that truly make Isola Bella unique.

The gardens of Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the Borromean Islands.

One only needs to cross the first steps leading to the gardens to understand that the Borromeo family did not simply wish to create a park around their residence. Their ambition was much greater: to create a work of art where nature, architecture, and landscape would be in constant dialogue.

The garden rises on ten superimposed terracesBuilt one above the other thanks to an impressive system of retaining walls, the island, seen from the lake, immediately evokes the stern of a vast stone ship sailing on the Verbano River. This comparison is not merely a literary image: the Baroque architects truly conceived the island as a symbolic vessel, where the palace would represent the prow and the gardens the highest part.

As you slowly climb the stairs, the landscape changes at each level.

The first terraces are bordered by perfectly trimmed boxwood hedges, pools, and allegorical statues representing the seasons, the winds, or the great virtues. Higher up, lemon, orange, and camellia trees appear. Wisteria-covered pergolas offer a few moments of shade before the gaze is drawn back to the lake.

Each terrace has its own personality.

None of them are designed to be admired in isolation. They form a path where perspectives are constantly changing. At one point, the eye is drawn to the snow-capped mountains of Monte Rosa massifA few meters further on, the view plunges towards the waters of the lake where boats seem to glide in slow motion between the islands. Then the gaze naturally returns to the palace whose facades gradually disappear behind the trees.

The desired effect is that of a theatrical promenade.

Visitors become actors in a scene imagined almost four centuries ago.

The most spectacular element is undoubtedly the Massimo Opera HouseA vast terrace crowns the garden's highest point. This monumental structure is adorned with statues, obelisks, and niches, forming a veritable sculpted façade open to the sky. From this belvedere, the view encompasses almost the entire Borromean Gulf. Stresa, Baveno, PallanzaThe Piedmontese mountains and the changing waters of Lake Maggiore compose a panorama of rare elegance.

This is also where the famous live white peacocksOver the decades, they have become one of the symbols of Isola Bella. Their presence is always surprising. They can be seen wandering freely among the statues, sometimes displaying their immense, immaculate tails in a setting that seems to have been created for them. Their whiteness contrasts with the deep green of the cypress trees, the blue of the lake, and the golden stone of the terraces.

Few visitors know, however, that these peacocks are not a recent attraction. They have long been part of the gardens' identity and fully participate in the Borromeo family's desire to create a place where nature itself becomes a spectacle.

Taking a few minutes to sit on one of the benches on the upper terraces reveals the full subtlety of the project. The gardens never seek to compete with the landscape. On the contrary, they complement it, enhance it, and integrate it into every perspective. The mountains, the lake, the palaces, and the vegetation become one.

It is probably this harmony that makes Isola Bella one of the most beautiful baroque gardens in Europe.

Isola Madre, the Borromeo family's secret garden where nature has become a work of art

Unlike Beautiful island, which immediately impresses with its monumental palace and baroque terraces, Isola Madre seduced almost in a low voice. The boat slowed down, went around some large trees whose branches seemed to plunge into the lake, then docked in front of a discreet shore where nothing really sought to attract attention.

The island seems wilder, more intimate, and more mysterious too.

The palace facades are barely visible behind the foliage. The tall trees tower over the buildings, as if nature had gradually reclaimed its rights over the work of men.

This is precisely what makes Isola Madre so charming.

Here, the Borromeo family never wanted to demonstrate their power.

They sought to create a place for contemplation.

For several centuries, this island was also the family's private residence During the warmer months, people came to live there far from official ceremonies, diplomatic receptions, and the pomp of Isola Bella. They found there silence, gardens, and a gentle way of life that still perfectly reflects the spirit of Lake Maggiore today.

A discreet palace that tells the story of the daily life of the Borromeo family

The history of Isola Madre begins long before that of Isola Bella.

At the beginning of the 16th century, Lancillotto Borromeo transforms this former agricultural island into a country residence. At that time, a few vines, olive trees, orchards, and vegetable gardens still occupied a large part of the area. Gradually, the crops gave way to an elegant Renaissance palace surrounded by gardens.

Unlike the spectacular palace of Isola Bella, that of Isola Madre retains a much more domestic dimension.

The lounges are bright without being ostentatious.

The painted ceilings, antique furniture and tapestries tell more about the intimacy of a great aristocratic family than its political power.

Among other things, it features a remarkable collection of puppets, miniature theatres and stage sets dating from the 18th centuryA refined testament to the entertainments the Borromeo family organized for their guests. The libraries, bedrooms, and private apartments also allow us to imagine daily life on this island when aristocratic families came to spend several weeks by the lake.

While walking through the different rooms, one notices above all how the windows have been designed like true paintings.

Everywhere, the eye is drawn towards the gardens.

The palace seems to have been built so that the landscape is never forgotten.

The most extraordinary botanical garden on Lake Maggiore

If visitors come all the way to Isola Madre, it is primarily to discover one of the most famous botanical gardens in Europe.

The walk begins almost immediately after leaving the landing stage. The paths climb gently towards the heart of the island, passing through vegetation whose diversity surprises at every turn.

Thanks to the exceptional microclimate of Lake Maggiore, the Borromeo family were able to acclimatize species from almost every continent here.

The huge Kashmir cypressamong the oldest in Europe, alongside giant sequoias, ginkgo biloba, Himalayan cedars, camphor trees, Asian magnolias, American liquidambars, japanese maples, palm, bamboo and an impressive collection of camellias, some varieties of which bloom as early as the end of winter.

The walk is never like that of a classic garden. The perspectives are constantly changing. A clearing suddenly opens onto the lake. A few meters further on, a path disappears beneath a canopy of bamboo before leading to a vast lawn dominated by centuries-old trees. The impression is almost that of an English romantic garden. Nothing seems truly geometric. Nature seems free.

And yet, every tree, every flowerbed and every opening onto the landscape has been carefully considered by several generations of gardeners.

An island that changes completely with the seasons

Few places allow one to measure the passing of the seasons as much as this island.

In spring, Isola Madre becomes a vast living painting.

The camelliasThe first flowers, whose collection is one of the most prestigious in Italy, begin to bloom as early as March. They are quickly joined by azaleas, rhododendrons, wisteria and magnolias which gradually perfume the entire island.

In summer, the coolness becomes almost surprising.

The immense, centuries-old trees filter the light and create a true refuge from the intense heat. Even in the heart of July, some paths remain bathed in a pleasant twilight, while the scents of resin, moss, and damp earth are more reminiscent of an alpine forest than an Italian garden.

Autumn is undoubtedly the most secluded season.

The Japanese maples turn vibrant red, while the sweetgums, ginkgos, and oaks offer a golden palette reflected in the lake's waters. Visitor numbers dwindle, and the island gradually regains the tranquility it once enjoyed.

Even in winter, when the gardens close to the public, the large trees continue to give Isola Madre a silhouette that is immediately recognizable from Stresa.

Peacocks, pheasants, and a silence that has become rare

What is most striking about Isola Madre is the calm.

Unlike Isola Bella, where the terraces constantly offer new perspectives on the lake, Isola Madre invites you to slow down.

The only true permanent inhabitants appear to be the birds.

The white peacocks They move freely across the lawns without seeming impressed by the visitors. They are accompanied by golden pheasantssilver pheasants and numerous bird species find a privileged refuge here. Isola MadreThe presence of birds is part of the tradition of the botanical and zoological garden established by the Borromeo family in the 19th century. Here, birds are part of a much larger naturalistic ensemble, on the same level as exotic trees.

Sometimes all it takes is sitting on a bench for a few minutes. The wind gently rustles the tall bamboo. A leaf falls into the lake. A peacock calls its distinctive cry in the distance. Then silence returns. This is probably the true luxury of Isola Madre.

Just a few hundred meters from the lively atmosphere of StresaThis island still offers the sensation of entering a private garden where time seems suspended. One doesn't come here seeking the baroque extravagance of Isola Bella, but a more discreet, almost contemplative emotion. And when the boat finally leaves the dock, the gaze returns one last time to this mass of vegetation floating on the lake, with the feeling of leaving behind a place whose most beautiful memories are not tied to a monument, but to an atmosphere.

Isola dei Pescatori, the authentic soul of Lake Maggiore

A village where the lake continues to dictate the rhythm of life

After the magnificence ofBeautiful island and the serene vegetation ofIsola Madre, the arrival on Isola dei Pescatori, also called Upper Island, produces an almost unexpected effect. The boat docks in front of a few houses with colorful facades, a small quay where a few fishing boats still bob and an alley so narrow that it seems impossible to imagine that it constitutes the main street of a village.

Here, the setting was not created to impress.

It was born out of necessity.

For centuries, the inhabitants lived exclusively from fishing and what the lake provided. Houses were built as close to the water as possible to facilitate daily work. The deliberately narrow alleyways offered protection from the wind and allowed for every square meter to be saved on an island that measures only slightly more than 300 meters long and about 100 meters wide.

Unlike the other two Borromean Islands, Isola dei Pescatori is still inhabited all year roundAround fifty residents live there permanently. Their presence profoundly transforms the atmosphere of the place. Behind half-open shutters, one glimpses tiny gardens, bicycles leaning against the walls, neatly stored fishing nets, and a few cats basking in the warmth of the stones. Even at the height of the tourist season, one immediately senses that the island is not an open-air museum, but a real village where life continues to flow to the rhythm of the lake.

This authenticity undoubtedly explains the affection travelers have for it. After the splendor of the Borromean palaces, rediscovering this simplicity brings an unexpected balance to the exploration of the archipelago.

Getting lost in the narrow streets is the best way to discover the island.

What immediately distinguishes it Isola dei PescatoriIt's the many details that remind us that the island wasn't born for tourism. Looking up the narrow streets, you can still see fishing nets hanging from facades or balconies, left to dry just as they used to. In the small courtyards, a few old wooden boats with slender lines evoke the traditional vessels that once plied Lake Maggiore daily. On the quays, mooring rings worn smooth by time and old metal hooks recall the days when fishermen unloaded their catches before preparing or drying them. Until the mid-20th century, it wasn't uncommon to see perch, whitefish, or bleak hanging on wooden racks to be preserved. While this practice has almost disappeared today, these discreet traces tell a story much older than that of the bustling terraces. They give the village an authenticity found nowhere else on the Borromean Islands. Here, behind every cobbled alley and every facade with colorful shutters, you can still feel the presence of several centuries of lakeside life.

There is virtually no set itinerary on Isola dei Pescatori.

The best way to discover it is to walk slowly, take the narrowest passages, follow the quays and then return to the heart of the village by chance through the small alleyways.

The houses sometimes seem to touch from one side of the street to the other. Balconies overflow with red geraniums, oleanders, and jasmine, whose fragrance accompanies strolls on sunny days. Small shops offer handcrafted goods, ceramics, traditional embroidery, and culinary specialties from Piedmont and Verbano.

In the center of the village stands the discreet San Vittore churchwhose origins date back to the 11th century. Its Romanesque bell tower has served for centuries as a landmark for fishermen navigating the lake. Inside, the simplicity of the decor contrasts sharply with the opulence of the chapels discovered a few hours earlier on Isola Bella. Here again, everything reminds us that the island is first and foremost a place of life.

Continuing to the northernmost point, the crowds gradually disappear. The quays become silent. The view then encompasses almost the entire Borromean Gulf. Beautiful island appears to float only a few hundred meters away, while the gardens ofIsola Madre They blend into a mass of deep green vegetation. In the distance, the Piedmont mountains close off the landscape with an elegance that gives the lake its full depth.

It is often here that visitors truly understand the complementary nature of the three islands. One speaks of power. Another celebrates nature. The third simply reminds us that Lake Maggiore is, above all, an inhabited territory.

The flavors of Lake Maggiore

Lunchtime is probably the best time to fully enjoy Isola dei Pescatori.

Restaurants line the quays, but most retain a family atmosphere. Their terraces are situated just a few meters from the water, offering uninterrupted views of the mountains and the boats shuttling between the islands.

The cuisine naturally features fish from the lake.

Le lavaretWhitefish, also known as coregone, is among the must-try specialties. Its delicate flesh is generally served grilled or simply with a drizzle of Piedmont olive oil. perch fillets, often prepared with butter and sage, are a reminder of how deeply the culinary traditions of Lake Maggiore remain linked to its natural environment.

You'll also find risottos flavored with lake fish, fresh pasta, cheeses from the neighboring valleys, and several wines from the region. Piedmont, in particular those produced in the hills of Upper Novarais or Langhe.

The meal then becomes a true extension of the journey.

From the terrace, your gaze constantly shifts from the food on your plate to the waters of the lake. Boats gently dock before heading back towards Stresa or Baveno. The mountains gradually change color throughout the day as conversations in Italian mingle with the lapping of the water.

Few restaurants offer such a naturally harmonious setting.

When calm returns to the island

Most visitors leave in the mid-afternoon to continue exploring the lake. Those who choose to stay a little longer discover a completely different side of Isola dei Pescatori. The narrow streets gradually empty. Shopkeepers pack up their stalls. Locals reclaim the quays. Silence slowly settles in as the last rays of sunlight illuminate the facades of the houses. At this hour, the lake almost regains the atmosphere it must have had before the arrival of the first English, German, or French travelers in the 19th century. A few fishermen prepare their boats for the next day's outing. Children play on the quay. The terraces fill up one last time before dinner.

Time seems to slow down.

It then becomes easy to imagine what these islands were like before the construction of the large hotels of Stresa or the arrival of tourist boats.

This impression is perhaps the most beautiful memory left by Isola dei Pescatori.

Not that of an exceptional monument, but that of a village that has managed to preserve its soul despite the fame of the site.

It is precisely this authenticity that so perfectly complements a visit to the Borromean Islands and gives the journey its full depth. Within the same archipelago, visitors discover successively the power of a great aristocratic family, a passion for gardens from around the world, and finally, the simplicity of a community that continues to live in harmony with the seasons and the waters of Lake Maggiore.

The secrets of the Borromean Islands

A work of art on the scale of a landscape

As you board the boat again to reach the next island, one thing gradually becomes clear. The three Borromean Islands were never conceived as independent sites to be visited separately. They form a coherent whole, almost a vast artistic composition with Lake Maggiore as its natural backdrop.

The Borromeos were not simply seeking to build a palace or create a remarkable garden. Their ambition was to transform an entire landscape.

From the terraces ofBeautiful islandThe gaze naturally falls towards the tall trees ofIsola MadreFrom the docks ofIsola dei PescatoriThe baroque palace seems to float above the waters. From Stresa, the three islands form a perfectly balanced line between the Piedmontese mountains and the Lombard shore.

This staging is remarkably modern.

Even today, landscape architects consider the Borromean Islands one of the first European examples where architecture, gardens, and the surrounding landscape were designed simultaneously. The palaces were never built to turn their backs on the lake. On the contrary, every window, every terrace, every staircase, every walkway naturally leads the eye towards the water or the mountains.

It is probably this ongoing relationship between human creation and nature that explains the feeling of harmony that most visitors experience.

You don't just visit three islands.

We discover a landscape entirely conceived as a work of art.

The Borromean emblems, a language of stone

While walking through the palaces or gardens, some visitors quickly notice that the same animal keeps recurring in sculptures, painted ceilings, ironwork or coats of arms.

it's about the unicorn, one of the main emblems of the Borromeo family.

In the medieval imagination, the unicorn symbolized purity, controlled strength, and fidelity. The Borromeo family gradually made it one of the distinctive symbols of their house. It still appears in many places today, sometimes discreetly engraved on a fireplace, sometimes sculpted in large format atop a gate, or integrated into the garden designs.

The most observant visitors will also notice the recurring presence of the family motto as well as other heraldic elements that recall the alliances concluded over the centuries with the great Italian families.

These details might seem anecdotal.

However, they allow us to better understand the primary function of these palaces.

In the Baroque era, receiving an ambassador, a cardinal, or a prince was also a way of showcasing the power of the family. Every sculpture, every fresco, and every symbol contributed to this silent discourse where art became a true political instrument.

Today, these emblems tell another story: that of a family that has preserved its heritage without freezing it and that continues to pass on this exceptional testimony of the Renaissance and Baroque era.

How do plants from all over the world grow at the foot of the Alps?

Few visitors leave the Borromean Islands without having asked themselves this question.

How can we explain that... palm, Japanese camellias, Kashmir cypress, American sequoias, Chinese magnolias or alternatively Himalayan cedars can they thrive on the shores of a lake located only a few dozen kilometers from the Alpine glaciers?

The secret lies in the Lake Maggiore has an exceptional microclimate..

With an area of ​​nearly 212 km²Lake Verbano acts as a vast thermal reservoir. During the winter, it slowly releases the heat accumulated during the summer months, thus mitigating the effects of severe frost. The mountains that partially surround the lake also play a protective role by blocking the cold winds from the north.

The Borromeo family understood very early on the possibilities offered by this particular climate.

From the 17th century onwards, they imported rare plants from Italy, and then gradually from Asia, America, and even Australia. In the 19th century, this passion grew considerably. Botanists experimented with the acclimatization of new species, exchanged seeds with major European gardens, and constantly enriched their collections.

Even today, the gardens of the Borromean Islands are among the richest in Europe.

Each season reveals a new setting.

In spring, camellias and azaleas kick off the flowering season. Summer sees hydrangeas, roses, and subtropical plants bloom. In autumn, Japanese maples set the pathways ablaze, while the tall trees offer a palette of reds and oranges that contrasts beautifully with the deep blue of the lake.

This botanical richness is undoubtedly one of the greatest surprises of the Borromean Islands.

People come here to admire palaces.

People often leave with the memory of a garden that is unique in the world.

The most beautiful panoramas of the Borromean Islands

From Stresa, the iconic viewpoint

There are few places where the Borromean Islands reveal themselves with such elegance as from the promenade of Stresa.

All along the shore, Belle Époque palaces alternate with flower gardens and terraces opening onto the lake. The three islands seem perfectly aligned, as if they had been placed there to compose one of the most beautiful landscapes in Italy.

In the early hours of the day, when the lake is perfectly calm, the palaces and gardens are almost entirely reflected in the water. In the late afternoon, the light from the west illuminates the facades of Isola Bella as the mountains begin to sink into shadow.

Often, all it takes is sitting on a bench for a few minutes to understand why so many travelers fall in love with Lake Maggiore even before they've set sail.

From Baveno, a more intimate perspective

Just a few kilometers from Stresa, Baveno offers a different perspective.

The lakefront is less bustling, and the quays offer a more peaceful setting for viewing the islands. The gardens of Isola Madre are more clearly visible in their entirety, while Isola Bella reveals the full silhouette of its Baroque terraces.

The sunrise there is particularly spectacular. The first rays gradually illuminate the gardens while the mountains remain shrouded in shadow.

For photographers, this is undoubtedly one of the best moments of the day.

From Pallanza and Mottarone

From the promenade PallanzaIn Verbania, the islands seem almost to float in the middle of a vast natural amphitheater dominated by the Alps. The panorama gains even more depth and allows for a better understanding of the geography of the Borromean Gulf.

But it's probably since the Mottaronein 1 meters above sea level, so that one fully grasps the place that the islands occupy in the landscape.

Seen from above, this handful of islets appears tiny in the middle of Lake Maggiore. The palaces become mere pale patches surrounded by vegetation. The mountains, the villages on the shore, and the other lakes of Piedmont all appear in a single glance.

It then becomes clear that the Borromeo family did not only build palaces.

They chose one of the most beautiful natural settings in the Italian Alps to write their story.

The Borromean Islands through the seasons

Spring, when gardens become a living painting

The Borromean Islands have a special relationship with the seasons. Their beauty depends not only on their palaces and panoramas, but also on the constant transformations of their gardens. Each time of year reveals a different face of the archipelago.

Le spring is undoubtedly the most spectacular season.

From the second half of March onwards, the first camellias bloom on Isola MadreTheir flowering is quickly followed by that of azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, and wisteria, which cover the pergolas with long, fragrant purple clusters. The terraces ofBeautiful island They regain all their exuberance, while the white peacocks spread their plumage in vegetation that has become lush once again.

At this time of year, temperatures generally fluctuate between 15 and 22°CThe days are long, the light particularly soft, and visitors still relatively few, especially on weekdays. The contrast between the gardens in bloom and the still snow-capped peaks of the Mount Rose or the Valais Alps gives the landscape a remarkable depth.

For botany enthusiasts and photographers alike, this is probably the most fascinating time of the year.

Summer, the Italian art of living by the lake

From June onwards, the Borromean Islands regain the vibrancy that has made their international reputation.

The boats of the Navigation on Lake Maggiore ensure almost continuous rotations between Stresa, Baveno, Pallanza and the three islands. The cafe terraces come alive from the morning, the gardens offer welcome coolness under the large trees and the long days allow you to truly take your time.

This is also the season when the lake becomes a permanent spectacle.

Sailboats, traditional boats, ferries, and small private vessels crisscross the waters, while the mountains are reflected in a deep blue rarely disturbed by the wind. From the terraces of Isola Bella, the view encompasses the lively shores of Stresa, the villas of Baveno, and the hills that close the horizon.

Summer naturally invites us to slow down.

You can spend the morning visiting the Isola Bella palace, and have a leisurely lunch on Isola dei Pescatoricontinue the afternoon in the gardens of Isola Madre before returning to Stresa at sunset.

This succession of different atmospheres explains why a single day often seems too short.

Autumn, the light returns

As September gives way to the first days of October, Lake Maggiore gradually changes its atmosphere.

Temperatures often remain very pleasant, boats continue to serve the islands, and gardens retain much of their plant life. However, the pace of life slows considerably.

Large corporations are gradually disappearing.

The walkways are returning to calm.

The palaces almost seem to belong to those who take the time to explore them.

In the gardens ofIsola MadreThe Japanese maples offer a particularly remarkable spectacle. Their leaves turn red, copper, or gold, while the large sweetgum trees take on flamboyant colors. The reflections on the lake also become more intense, especially in the late afternoon when the light descends behind the mountains.

This season appeals to travellers who are looking for more contemplation than summer activity.

Many even consider this to be the best time to fully appreciate the beauty of the islands.

Winter, another side of Lake Maggiore

Winter often takes visitors by surprise.

While historic palaces and gardens generally close between early November and mid-March — the dates varying slightly depending on the seasons and restoration programs — the Borromean Islands continue to dominate the landscape.

From StresaThey then take on a whole new dimension.

The trees lose some of their leaves, the surrounding mountains are covered in snow, and the lake regains an almost absolute tranquility. The grand Belle Époque hotels, the silent quays, and the silhouettes of the islands create a setting of rare elegance, quite different from that of summer.

This period also allows you to enjoy the region's thermal spas, walks along the quays, or excursions to the Mottaronewhose winter panoramas offer an exceptional view over the entire Borromean Gulf.

Even when closed, the islands remain the heart of the landscape.

How to visit the Borromean Islands?

Where do the boats depart from?

The vast majority of visitors embark from Stresa, a true gateway to the Borromean Islands.

The docks are located directly on the lakeside promenade, just minutes from the main hotels and the historic center. During the palaces' opening season, departures are particularly frequent, generally every 20 to 30 minutes between morning and late afternoon.

It is also possible to embark from Baveno, Verbania-Pallanza, Intra, Laveno-Mombello or, Aronawhich can be useful if you are staying on the other side of the lake.

Two types of navigation coexist.

The public company Navigation on Lake Maggiore It provides regular connections according to a fixed timetable, also allowing travel to other villages around the lake. Private companies offer direct shuttles between Stresa and the islands, with very frequent departures during peak season.

Opening hours vary throughout the year. It is therefore recommended to check them before your visit, especially in spring and autumn.

Tickets, visiting hours and practical advice

Several options are available for visiting the Borromean Islands.

Le transport by boat is purchased separately from the shipping companies, while access to the palaces and gardens is managed by Borromeo lands, which offers individual tickets or combination passes giving access to Beautiful island et Isola MadreThese tickets can be purchased online or directly on site.

How much time should I allow?

A whole day This is undoubtedly the best option.

The palace and gardens of Isola Bella alone require two to three hours if you truly wish to enjoy the visit. Isola Madre also deserves at least two hours, especially for leisurely strolls through its botanical gardens. Finally, Isola dei Pescatori naturally invites you to linger over lunch or a late afternoon walk.

If your time is limited, prioritize Beautiful island for its historical heritage and gardens, then Isola dei Pescatori for its authenticity. However, botany or photography enthusiasts should not miss out on Isola Madre, whose garden is among the most beautiful in Europe.

Finally, one last piece of advice: leave early.

The first boats offer a chance to discover Isola Bella in magnificent light, before the tour groups arrive. At the end of the day, do the opposite: stay a few hours longer on Isola dei PescatoriWhen the last boats leave and the terraces regain their calm, the village reveals an atmosphere that few visitors have the chance to experience.

The Borromean Islands, the beating heart of Lake Maggiore

When the boat finally resumes its course StresaThe gaze naturally returns to the three islands that are slowly receding into the distance.

The palace ofBeautiful island gradually disappears behind its flower-filled terraces. The tall trees ofIsola Madre close their verdant setting. The houses ofIsola dei Pescatori regain their tranquility while a few boats remain motionless along the quays.

At that moment, we understand that the Borromean Islands are not just an exceptional tourist site.

They tell a story.

The story of a visionary family who transformed a few rocky islets into a masterpiece where architecture, gardens, and landscape have been in dialogue for nearly four centuries. The story of a lake that has shaped the lives of generations of fishermen and attracted artists, writers, sovereigns, and travelers from all over Europe. And finally, the story of a territory where alpine nature meets an almost Mediterranean gentleness, giving birth to a landscape found nowhere else.

Visiting the Borromean Islands means, of course, admiring a baroque palace, exploring exceptional gardens or having lunch in a lakeside village.

But above all, it's about experiencing a day where every crossing, every panorama and every walk tells a fragment of the history of Lake Maggiore.

And when the palaces of Stresa Even as they reappear in the distance, one certainty remains: Europe boasts many beautiful gardens, palaces, and lakes. The Borromean Islands, however, bring all of this together in a single landscape. This undoubtedly explains why, after several centuries, they continue to enchant all those who take the time to explore them.

Photo credits:

Isola dei Pescatori:

Michele Ursino, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Isola_dei_Pescatori_%28Stresa%29_-_Isole_Borromee_-_Lake_Maggiore_-_24_Oct._2012.jpg

Isola Bella: Torsade de Pointes, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons// https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/77/Isola_Bella_Palazzo_Borromeo_da_Baveno.JPG

Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori:Gianni Careddu, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e3/Stresa%2C_isola_Bella_%2801%29.jpg

Isola Bella: CucombreLibre from New York, NY, USA, CC BY 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Borromeo-P3P-20170530-010_%2836234155645%29.jpg

Isola Madre: Torsade de Pointes, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Isola_Madre_1.JPG

White Peacock: Wolfgang Sauber, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d0/Isola_Madre_-_Vogel_2.jpg

Palazzo Borromeo Isola Madre: Civvì, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2f/Palazzo_Borromeo_Isola_Madre.jpg

Isola Madre Gardens: Dominik Landwehr, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ae/Isola_Madre_Garden.jpg

Isola Bella Terrace: FrDr, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons // https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c9/Isola_Bella_%28Lago_Maggiore-Isole_Borromee%29_81.jpg

Other photos: @OlivierCiucci

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