I tested for you the ski slopes of Val d'Isère. This station of Haute-Tarentaise has become over time a luxurious and exclusive ski resort. And yet, less than a century ago, the village of Val d'Isère was still one of the most isolated inhabited villages in winter. Its altitude, its steepness, the harshness of the winters in this region of the Alps and the only access road that had to pass through gorges to reach the basin of Val d'Isere were the cause of the harsh winter living conditions of its inhabitants.

But the manna of white gold has passed by there. Snow-covered Val d'Isère, with its well-preserved typical village feel, is located at the foot of a vast area that has been converted into a ski resort. Tignes at the Col de l'Iseran, from the Grande Motte glacier to the Grand Pisaillas glacier, the ski area is vast and rugged. Several valleys and plateaus follow one another for the delight of skiers who can try out varied terrain and slopes.

Let's take a tour of the Val d'Isère ski area together.

The ski resort of Val d'Isère.

At the end of the road which Bourg Saint Maurice (and its station) goes up the Isère valley to the start of the bends which, in summer, lead at the Iseran pass, there is the village of Val d'Isère.

Val d'Isère, at an altitude of 1850 metres, is made up of several hamlets which gravitate around the central core, the old village of Val d'Isère.

This one has a crazy charm, especially in winter, when the roofs are covered in snow and the gray color of the stone stands out against the whiteness that surrounds it. Val d'Isère has charm. And there are so few French high-altitude ski resorts that resemble a real village that it is necessary to emphasize it.

Val d'Isère does not look like a 70s urban resort. It is an old village that has been restored, renovated and modernized. The result is a mountain village atmosphere, with materials used for renovations and new constructions that reflect the luxury sought by the owners. We could then say that the village has lost some of its old mountain soul. Yes, that's true, but today it is above all a tourist destination and it has done everything to beautify and modernize itself while remaining harmonious to the eye.

The village therefore extends along a valley where a small torrent called Isère flows, which will become larger and larger before crossing Grenoble and flowing into the Rhône. There is therefore a main valley, in which we find from upstream to downstream Le Fornet at almost 2000 meters above sea level, the Vieux Village at 1850 meters and the more modern district, in the style of the 70s, two kilometers further, La Daille. All three are starting points for the ski area.

A secondary valley, almost perpendicular to the first, sinks into the mountain. There are some pretty new residences made of stone and wood, cross-country ski trails, the start of snowshoe or ski touring circuits and the arrival segments of some trails that are traced on the slopes on each side of the valley. This is the Manchet valley, covered with larches in its part close to the village.

These hamlets and districts are all within walking distance (maximum 2 km, between twenty and thirty minutes of walking, strolling) and live around the old village. The Daille is the only one, which by the presence of large known brands of rental residences has been designed to be autonomous.

Modern resorts are often built on natural balconies that dominate a landscape, with buildings that are frankly not all pleasant to see and ski slopes right into the village streets. Here, it's quite the opposite. A resort that looks like a village, a central point to start the day of skiing in the old center, and a real valley with a torrent flowing in the middle and bridges. All at 1800 meters. It's quite unique in France. That's why I insist on it so much.

Village atmosphere in Val d'Isère in winter
Village atmosphere in Val d'Isère in winter

The Val d'Isère ski area

Le Val d'Isère ski area is connected to Tignes, to which we have also dedicated an article. It extends over 150 km of slopes, half of the area shared with Tignes. You can discover 74 slopes, almost half of which are red and black, served by 38 ski lifts.

You ski on several slopes and in several valleys.

From the Fornet, you have direct access to the Iseran sector and the Grand Pisaillas glacier at an altitude of 3200 meters.

Between Val d'Isère centre and Le Fornet, there is another hamlet, Le Laisinant. A chairlift serves the Iseran sector but also that of Solaise, above Val d'Isère.

From the starting point of all the slopes in the old village of Val d'Isère you have access to two sectors: Solaise and its beautiful sunny slopes, including a whole park for beginners and Bellevarde. The descents from Solaise and Bellevarde towards the centre of the village are extremely engaging. The red ones too. You need to have a good level of skiing, otherwise you will have to go back down by cable car (for Solaise) or cable car (for Bellevarde).

From La Daille you have access to Bellevarde thanks to the funival (a sort of mountain metro) but also to the entire Tovière sector which provides a link with Tignes.

When you are at the top, you can of course move from one sector to another. You generally have the choice between blue, red or black runs to ensure these connections but even the blue ones are quite sporty.

It can never be said enough: unless you ski in an area for beginners (the Solaise plateau or the vertes above La Daille) in Val d'Isère, skiing is sporty. It burns your thighs on almost every descent.

It is difficult to indicate a more beautiful sector than another because they are all magnificent. The landscapes that you have each time you reach a summit are breathtaking. Vanoise, Haute Maurienne or Mont Blanc: here is the menu of landscapes. Even if you do not ski, you have to go up to Solaise. There is a small lake at the top (Lac de l'Ouillette): you can go around it on footpaths. The place is bathed in sunshine, the atmosphere is very relaxed. It is the ideal place to spend your days when you accompany skiers. They come to say hello to you and you enjoy the subtle air of the 2500 meters of altitude.

Val d'Isère, a real village
Val d'Isère, a resort nestled in a valley

My ten favorite ski slopes in the Val d'Isère ski area

From Bellevarde, all good skiers will attempt the famous facing Bellevarde in red or black version. It's fair game. It makes sense. But the descent on the red Santons slope, early in the morning is much more fun in my opinion. We pick up speed from the top of Bellevarde on the red of Fontaine Froide and we enter the small narrowing, like a canyon, of santons. At the exit of the canyon, on a steep slope, you have to pick up speed to ensure the turn in the Manchet valley and the passage of the flat between the luxurious residences of the new district. If we miss the speed, on the other hand it will be a nightmare...

Opposite this track, on the other side of the Manchet, the Arcelle red run allows you to ski in solitude. It only leads to a chairlift that takes you back to its summit. Skiing is of prime importance, but precisely there you ski among those who understand, avoiding all those who only cross sectors to link up slopes.

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At the top of this chairlift, we find ourselves on the Solaise plateauBeautiful blue slopes served by the Glacier, Datcha and Madeleine chairlifts allow you to rest a little and catch your breath before tackling the sports sector of Le Fornet.

To get there, you have to feel the thrill of the Leissières chairlift which swings from one side of the mountain to the other. It connects the Fornet sector to the rest and it is a two-way street. So you will come across lots of other skiers who are doing the opposite route. Hello!

Finally, you will explore the trails of the Iseran sector : the Grand Pisaillas with the Moraine or Cascade slope that we will extend with beautiful easy curves on the blue slopes of the Pyramides and the Vallon. It is also the opportunity to test a black, not too difficult (when the snow conditions are good and at the end of the day when the sun has softened the snow): the Signal and its extension Signal Bas.

For the return, I love the red trail that starts from Solaise and which takes the name of Plan (very inclined, in my opinion) and then Piste M, perhaps because of the word that begins with this letter that we tend to say at each bend…

La Daille side, the slopes that go down to the resort are rather in the shade at the end of the day on their final part. Think about it when you go back down, they are often icy.

Access to Tignes? It is via La Tovière or the Col de Fresse in the La Daille sector (going up by the La Daille cable car from this hamlet) or by going back down from Bellevarde, opposite the slopes of the north face (the Diebold slope, blue).

Skiing in the forest? Here it's larch, the one that loses its needles in winter (and is golden in autumn). So not really dense forests to cross. However, all the slopes that go back down to Le Fornet, Le Village and La Daille have routes through these forests. It's better than nothing in case of a white day at altitude.

When there is wind on the estate (often Foehn and Lombarde), avoid the Iseran sector. This is where it blows the strongest.

You know everything about this magnificent area, which extends over several valleys and which allows you to always ski in the sun (except for the last returns). The easy areas are accessible with a gondola or a cable car which also allows you to go back down. The slopes are long, the differences in altitude significant, but above all the slopes have a very marked angle.

When you love skiing, you love skiing in Val d'Isère.

Snow guaranteed in Val d'Isère
Snowy roofs and chalets in Val d'Isère

And when we're not skiing, what do we do in Val d'Isère?

Let's start with those who love silence. Val d'Isère offers ice climbing initiations in La Daille, dog sledding or fat bike outings. It's nice to be at the bottom of the valley.

Of course you always have the option of snowshoeing, hiking or relaxing in the aquasports center. Air sports are also available: paragliding, paragliding, etc.

If you want to try other types of sliding, try the snook. You sit on a seat placed on a skate. You ski while sledding. It's quick to learn, fun and for everyone! It takes place at the Savonnette ski lift, in the village or in La Daille. Otherwise, you can always go sledding

For those who love the sound of engines, you are spoiled for choice: Moonbike, Snowmobile and Snow Karting in E-buggy. Here too, fun between fans of motorized travel.

Finally, to enjoy the cold and the sun at the same time, why not try ice-floating at the Ouillette lake in Solaise?

Val d'Isère is a great ski resort. The slopes are great, the landscapes you cross are sumptuous. The village is very pleasant, whether the weather is nice or snowing. The larch forests, although bare in winter, give that touch of softness that is sometimes lacking in resorts located at higher altitudes. You feel good there and you ski well. Everything you need for a great holiday!

So, have a great ski holiday in Val d'Isère.

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